can`t even stop 2 P, WHAT R U RUN`N Options

[6freak]

One session and they where mush and just keep get`n worse Thought they would cool and get maybe a little back but NO

[brant]

I'm kinda late to the party
spent the last 5 days driving a new race track near Dallas
thanks for the invite Eric

I agree with Eric, Dan, Josh, and Greg
the stock brakes are really all you need below 300+ Hp
there is an endless debate, that goes something like this:

brake traction is limited by tire traction
Huge "turbo"-ish brakes can increase the ability to modulate the pedal, but they do not increase tire traction.

In fact they reduce tire traction by adding rotating-unsprung weight (mostly in the form of rotor weight) and actually hurt acceleration and decelaration.

What they can do is provide more of a heat sink for converted energy
but again.... they will not help you stop faster

so if your going 180mph and need to slow down to zero repeatedly, the big brakes will provide the heat sink you need.

most of the 914 drivers I know (the faster ones anyways) get by with small, or even stock brakes. The fastest stock -4 driver I've ever known actually ran stock calipers front and rear. At the time I was green to wheel to wheel in the mid 90's and thought that I needed vented rotors on the rear and huge brakes. Couldn't figure out why he was out braking me.

Turns out that 914's don't need to use the brakes too much. The faster drivers learn to scrub speed by drifting the car in the corner more and not using the brakes as much. This is what Dan, and others are referring too.. it takes a bunch of seat time (or natural talent - something I DO NOT have) to learn this.

I'm running S calipers on the front. they are more than necessary, but I really run them for weight and not because they are bigger. I'm running stock front calipers moved to the rear (no parking brake)

I've been running this set up for 18 years on the track, have never had a single brake fade or over heating incident yet.

- I do run scoops (like the AJUSA ones) pictured they may not really be necessary
- I love the removal of the stock proportioning valve. They are very hard to bleed, but that is my best guess of your problem. Keep bleeding. Its positioned below the motor tin on the firewall. You may need to break open a line on it while your bleeding. I used to make certain the car was raked (higher in rear) and tap it with a mallet while bleeding.
- I echo the track pad necessity of Josh. I personally like the KFP golds for our lighter cars, but track pads work at the higher temperature your experiencing. Street pads get mushy and ineffective when they over heat.
- do remove the splash guards on both the front and the rear
- pull your floor board, pull the rubber grommet on your master cylinder, double check that yours isn't leaking/bad.

Seriously as Eric said, M calipers really are all you need. below 300hp, your car can't achieve a high enough top speed to need more heat sinking capacity.

really really fast cars could theoretically accelerate to that high speed fast enough to not get any cooling. I would think this would be most likely in on a OVAL track with consistent high speeds and regular/repeated corners.

take your tools with you to the track.
if the brakes go out again, get a friend to help you bleed them at the track
I'm guessing that with the heat shields off, and another good bleeding of the proportioning valve that you will have solved the problem. If they still go away after 5 laps, get those race pads.

brant