1.8 to 2056 wiring help, swapped out engine now what? |
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1.8 to 2056 wiring help, swapped out engine now what? |
mattp |
Jun 26 2008, 08:03 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 257 Joined: 22-November 06 From: westchester NY Member No.: 7,252 |
I swapped the 1.8 in my 75 for a 2056 with carbs, I cant seem to figure out the wiring?
I have the 12 pin harness connected to starter and back up lights, 1/2 the dual relay, I have a brown wire, a green and brown wire and three black (2 tied together) wires. I also have white wire coming out of the harness at the 12 pin cinnector with a tab (female) connector, where does that go? The blacks go to the coil, does it matter what side? where do the others go? I also have the battery to the starter cable, ground is grounded, there is also a red wire tied into my positive cable. anyone ever write a list of how to convert to carbs? thanks, Matt |
r_towle |
Jun 26 2008, 08:47 PM
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#2
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,591 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
lets see if I can remember this.
You are dealing with two wiring harness's here. the main harness has the red wire that goes to the positive terminal on the battery...that is the main power for the ignition and fuse panel. The engine bay wiring basically plugs in to the motor and FI system. You will need to go to the classics forum to find the thread that shows how to use the fuel pump wiring while running carbs. The power lead and the tach lead go to the positive side of the coil. The negative side of the coil goes to the distributor. You need to hook up the oil pressure sender (just below the distributor) aside from that, you seem to have the rest covered. Rich |
euro911 |
Jun 26 2008, 10:27 PM
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#3
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Retired & living the dream. God help me if I wake up! Group: Members Posts: 8,851 Joined: 2-December 06 From: So.Cal. & No.AZ (USA) Member No.: 7,300 Region Association: Southern California |
lets see if I can remember this. You are dealing with two wiring harness's here. the main harness has the red wire that goes to the positive terminal on the battery...that is the main power for the ignition and fuse panel. The engine bay wiring basically plugs in to the motor and FI system. You will need to go to the classics forum to find the thread that shows how to use the fuel pump wiring while running carbs. YOUR EXISTING F.I. FUEL PUMP'S PRESSURE (+/- 35 PSI) WILL BE TOO HIGH FOR RUNNING CARBS. YOU SHOULD SWAP IT OUT FOR A CARB TYPE PUMP, OR INSTALL A FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR (3 ~ 5 PSI). The power lead (RED OR BLACK/RED LEAD) THE TACH LEAD (BLACK/PURPLE LEAD) GOES TO THE NEGATIVE (-) SIDE OF THE COIL The negative side of the coil ALSO goes to the distributor (THIS IS THE GREEN LEAD TO THE CONDENSER AND POINTS) BROWN IS [ALWAYS] A GROUND WIRE AND WILL ATTACH TO A GROUNDING TAB ON THE TOP OF THE ENGINE CASE (NEARER TO THE FLYWHEEL END OF THE CASE) You need to hook up the oil pressure sender (GREEN/RED LEAD) (just below the distributor) ... aside from that, you seem to have the rest covered. Rich Also, one (or both) of your carbs MAY have a short vacuum port protruding from the base. This is for connecting the vacuum advance hose from your distributor. If you plan to run the original distributor from your 1.8, make this connection. You only need to use one port, so plug the unused port (if there is one on the other carb). Disregard (the vacuum advance hose part - BUT plug the ports on the carbs) if you're running a mechanical advance dizzy. |
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