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plymouth37 |
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,825 Joined: 24-May 05 From: Snoqualmie, WA Member No.: 4,138 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
I am playing around with the idea of swapping to a full Fiberglass body. The F/G panels will be bolted in place from behind by way of glassed in studs. The fenders and door skins would be removable but look like they are part of a solid body.
My question is this: has any one delt with zero-kewl914 on ebay and if so how was the quality of the 'glass? I really like the idea of light weight removable panels, but could I make it look good? Here are some pics of this guys stuff. Here is a link. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Jeff Hail |
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,141 Joined: 3-May 07 From: LA/ CA Member No.: 7,712 ![]() |
I have personally made a plethora of plugs/ molds for race cars. Fiberglass is something of an art to produce a perfect panel versus OEM steel body panels.
If you are expecting a show quality surface from production f/g parts you will be disappointed. Sheridans products are top notch for the money and unique to the 914. Roger is ahead of the game. Fiberglass body panels are intended for racing which is short term and considered consumable unless modified for street use. If you are looking for perfection in fit and finish your expectations will not be met. Most glass panels are considered 10/10........ok from 10 feet away. All f/g panels require fit and finish work. Not trying to discourage you but expect a lot of re-working to make it look factory. Quality is 100% dependant on mat layup or chopper gun manufacture. I have seen (zero-kewl914's) parts and for the money are not bad. Zack Schmidt is is the man behind the screen name. Zack's plugs are taken from a real flaired 914. The gap between the fender and doors will most likely need re-work as they are known to be short and rough cut as fiberglass normally is. This is reflected in his molds that still have the oem spot weld impressions visable in the gelcoat. Again for the money not bad. Glass is glass though! You need to accept that it just needs to be worked. To obtain a high quality OEM finish you will need to fit the panel correctly. This can be done with epoxy to secure the panels or Dzus fasteners for quick removal. Also expect at least 4 hours of labor per panel for fit and finish work to match the OEM gaps and surface. The gelcoat will need to be coated with about 10 mils of Dura-Tech then blocked down to 3-6 mils to eliminate waves and sealed prior to color. Additional impact coatings on the underside are reqiured for street use. (buildup of glass mat,carbon fiber mat or kevlar tape). As long as you understand what is coming you should not have any surprises. Afterall even factory panels require fitting. |
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