Steve's unending Progress thread, Air compressor setup recommendations Options

[stephenaki]

OK, this will be the thread that I keep updated as I make progress. I showed up at 0800 at Christoph's place and he was ready for me with a not so glamorous chunk of metal that is my cars heart and soul.

With a little assistance, we loaded it into my Toyota Sienna, not quite I envisioned a mini-van for, and I was headed back to the house. Upon getting home I had to first make coffee then clear out some space in my tiny German garage. So that everyone has a frame of reference to the area that I am working in I have enclosed this lovely 4x6 glossy of my garage in Germany.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i273.photobucket.com-7987-1268747638.1.jpg)

And, for those of you not familiar with the Toyota Sienna, a shot of the engine in the back of the van. There's a lot of room back there for the motor but, it is awkward to get in and out of when loading a motor.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i273.photobucket.com-7987-1268747639.2.jpg)

Now to summarize what was accomplished on the 4th of July, engine brought home, tin, impeller and housing, exhaust, cylinder head and cylinders removed. I had difficulty removing the impeller hub. OK, I didn't get it removed, will need a puller and I don't have one unless anyone can give me any ideas how to get it off without a puller.

Now for the requisite pictures of the motor unmolested.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i273.photobucket.com-7987-1268747639.3.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i273.photobucket.com-7987-1268747640.4.jpg)

Now based on the initial tear down two problems presented it self first the primary issue with a lack of compression...HOLY SHIT!!! Here is what I found.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i273.photobucket.com-7987-1268747641.5.jpg)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
Now the cylnder itself was not pitted, it had a build up of corrosion but otherwise in good condition. So I was thinking, maybe I can just clean hone and replace the piston. Well that thought went out the window when I pulled the cylinder directly opposite to it. As you can see by the photo, problem #2.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i273.photobucket.com-7987-1268747642.6.jpg)

More importantly, where did that piece of metal go? An initial look behind the piston shows a knick in the inner portion of the crankcase.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i273.photobucket.com-7987-1268747642.7.jpg)

I will see if there is more significant damage when I split the case; so it begins and were off to a rocket start here at the 914 follies! Stay tuned for the next exciting episode of "never buy a car sight unseen" later in the week! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

Gonna go shower and start working on the motor some more. Plan is to have it completely torn down befor the end of this weekend. I will load up some pictures to my photo bucket album and post the link a bit later.

[r_towle]

To answer your question regarding the valve guides. First, assume they need to be replaced and go from there to prove that assumption wrong.

They all wear out.
Put each valve in its guide and measure the side to side play at the top of the valve stem. The spec and the procedure are in the haynes manual and the shop manual....just read...

The heads may have cracks that you cannot see.
Clean the combustion chamber much better...till there is no carbon left.
If you can find a place to heat them up, great...do that...
If you can get them to 300-400 degrees, the cracks may get large enough to see...then once cool, wipe with ink...ink is super thin and seaps into the crack really well.

Rich

[stephenaki]

To answer your question regarding the valve guides. First, assume they need to be replaced and go from there to prove that assumption wrong.

They all wear out.
Put each valve in its guide and measure the side to side play at the top of the valve stem. The spec and the procedure are in the haynes manual and the shop manual....just read...

The heads may have cracks that you cannot see.
Clean the combustion chamber much better...till there is no carbon left.
If you can find a place to heat them up, great...do that...
If you can get them to 300-400 degrees, the cracks may get large enough to see...then once cool, wipe with ink...ink is super thin and seaps into the crack really well.

Rich

I don't think the autocraft shop has a dial indicator but I plan on checking. I need to get a new scotch pad to clean up the heads a bit more, this weekend was the first cleaning.

I will have Christoph do a better check for cracks as I don't have the ability to heat up the head as you recommend. Now, if the valves measure within tollerance the question is do the two guides on the one head have to be changed regardless based on one side being kinda flat.