CALLING ALL 2056 engine owner/builders, survey for past AND future 2056 builders Options

[orange914]

i am interested in the REAL world cost and issues incured by others who have built these motors. i recently finished one and so far am extreemly happy with how strong and smooth it runs. there where issues as with alot of things but after working thru them, all is well. my 2056 probably has a bit more done to it than most 2056 builds, that may account for the successful outcome BUT maybe not. from what i've seen this is a highly sucessful combination.

don't be shy and tell us what ALL was done and your detailed experiance with building/driving it. this could be a great help for past and present 2056 builds.

if there is interest i'll make another poll on presures and temp.'s

mike (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

EDIT MCMARK: Added "No Problems"

[Jake Raby]

I'll enter this one as an Enthusiast, not a professional:

I built the 2056 in my 912E in September 2002, 144K miles ago- it used the first set of KB pistons and the first set of Hastings rings as well.. I coupled that to OE bored cylinders.

The OE head castings had very few issues and were simply fully rebuilt with new seats, guides and hardware. I did our spark plug strengthening procedures to the heads with 12mm plugs and no port work was done at all, chambers were balanced and that was about the extent of the head work.

I coupled that to a RAT 9530 camshaft with Johnson lifters.

I pulled the original crank and rods out and they didn't even need rebuilding, I polished the crank and installed some new rod bearings, main bearings and cam bearings.. I did nothing to the rods, didn't re-bush them or re-size them, because at the time the car was perfect and I didn't plan on driving it much at all.. Then I met this chick that lived 3 hours away and I had 35K on the engine in the first year!

I literally patched this one up from its OE parts and only replaced bearings, cam/ lifters, pistons and bored the OE cylinders.. I didn't encounter any issues during assembly and I built the engine in a single long day at the shop...

When dynoed it made 127HP, up a hell of a lot from the 76HP rating it had from the factory!
I ran the engine on dual 44 Webers for 59K miles, at which time it was swapped back to FI with a Kit Carlson EMS unit for testing. I ran this for 10K miles until the developer asked for the system back... I then installed a RAT/ SDS FI arrangement and it has been on the engine every since.

The last time I adjusted the valves was february 2003.
I have gone NO LESS than 10K miles on an oil change and as much as 23K... The engine has ran Royal Purple oil since it was conceived...

A few weeks ago I did the math on the MPG for the first time in a long time and came up with 37 MPG... The best the engine ever got was just over 40 when it was only 20K miles old and 37 @ 144K of pure abuse and neglect is amazing!

The engine shows some signs of weakness after all those hard ass miles, but I have no plans to tear it down until it has parts hanging out of it :-)

I like the 2056 combination, they make excellent power per dollar spent and are the simplest engine to assemble.

BTW- You should amend your poll questions to cover "no issues encountered" because my build cost less than 2K (at the time) and I didn't encounter any odd issues during the build and haven't in the 144K following it.

This post has been edited by Jake Raby: Aug 20 2008, 11:56 PM

[orange914]

I did our spark plug strengthening procedures to the heads with 12mm plugs and no port work was done at all, chambers were balanced and that was about the extent of the head work.

i've been meaning to ask; do you remember if there was any port work done on the modified 039 heads i got from you. they were a thing of beauty to look at BTW

The engine has ran Royal Purple oil since it was conceived...

how do you feel about royale purple vrs. brad penn with this motor? i was thinking about running it after useing the break in 30w and a full case of 20x50 b.p. i know that synthetic oil most likely would bring down engine temp.'s but it runs so damn cool already. fully warmed on 85-90* day @200* isn't too cold is it? this is a UN compensated duel CHT reading, so as far as i know i ad 25-30* (compensated from base of 70*) =230+.

BTW- You should amend your poll questions to cover "no issues encountered" because my build cost less than 2K (at the time) and I didn't encounter any odd issues during the build and haven't in the 144K following it.

good point, i went back to edit but it won't edit the poll part.

mike