i am interested in the REAL world cost and issues incured by others who have built these motors. i recently finished one and so far am extreemly happy with how strong and smooth it runs. there where issues as with alot of things but after working thru them, all is well. my 2056 probably has a bit more done to it than most 2056 builds, that may account for the successful outcome BUT maybe not. from what i've seen this is a highly sucessful combination.

don't be shy and tell us what ALL was done and your detailed experiance with building/driving it. this could be a great help for past and present 2056 builds.

if there is interest i'll make another poll on presures and temp.'s

mike

EDIT MCMARK: Added "No Problems"

I'll enter this one as an Enthusiast, not a professional:

I built the 2056 in my 912E in September 2002, 144K miles ago- it used the first set of KB pistons and the first set of Hastings rings as well.. I coupled that to OE bored cylinders.

The OE head castings had very few issues and were simply fully rebuilt with new seats, guides and hardware. I did our spark plug strengthening procedures to the heads with 12mm plugs and no port work was done at all, chambers were balanced and that was about the extent of the head work.

I coupled that to a RAT 9530 camshaft with Johnson lifters.

I pulled the original crank and rods out and they didn't even need rebuilding, I polished the crank and installed some new rod bearings, main bearings and cam bearings.. I did nothing to the rods, didn't re-bush them or re-size them, because at the time the car was perfect and I didn't plan on driving it much at all.. Then I met this chick that lived 3 hours away and I had 35K on the engine in the first year!

I literally patched this one up from its OE parts and only replaced bearings, cam/ lifters, pistons and bored the OE cylinders.. I didn't encounter any issues during assembly and I built the engine in a single long day at the shop...

When dynoed it made 127HP, up a hell of a lot from the 76HP rating it had from the factory!
I ran the engine on dual 44 Webers for 59K miles, at which time it was swapped back to FI with a Kit Carlson EMS unit for testing. I ran this for 10K miles until the developer asked for the system back... I then installed a RAT/ SDS FI arrangement and it has been on the engine every since.

The last time I adjusted the valves was february 2003.
I have gone NO LESS than 10K miles on an oil change and as much as 23K... The engine has ran Royal Purple oil since it was conceived...

A few weeks ago I did the math on the MPG for the first time in a long time and came up with 37 MPG... The best the engine ever got was just over 40 when it was only 20K miles old and 37 @ 144K of pure abuse and neglect is amazing!

The engine shows some signs of weakness after all those hard ass miles, but I have no plans to tear it down until it has parts hanging out of it :-)

I like the 2056 combination, they make excellent power per dollar spent and are the simplest engine to assemble.

BTW- You should amend your poll questions to cover "no issues encountered" because my build cost less than 2K (at the time) and I didn't encounter any odd issues during the build and haven't in the 144K following it.

i've been meaning to ask; do you remember if there was any port work done on the modified 039 heads i got from you. they were a thing of beauty to look at BTW


how do you feel about royale purple vrs. brad penn with this motor? i was thinking about running it after useing the break in 30w and a full case of 20x50 b.p. i know that synthetic oil most likely would bring down engine temp.'s but it runs so damn cool already. fully warmed on 85-90* day @200* isn't too cold is it? this is a UN compensated duel CHT reading, so as far as i know i ad 25-30* (compensated from base of 70*) =230+.


good point, i went back to edit but it won't edit the poll part.

mike

My first 2056 was built with a set of AA pistons and cylinders, redone rods and a balanced crank. Got the cam from Jake (I can't remember which one it was now... ) and a set of ceramic lifters from LN Engineering. I didn't run into any issues and spent less than $2000 because I already had rebuilt heads.

I can't believe that was FOUR years ago already...

My first 2056 is still my first 2056. I spent under 3k (including carbs and exhaust) because a machine shop did about $1500-$2000 worth of head work for $300.00.
European Motorworks (cheap) P's & C's, the rings didn't seat until I replaced them with Total Seal rings. European Motorworks (cheap) counterweighted crank, used rods, used rod bolts, used webcam 134c cam, mixed up lifters from the same cam, 10.5:1 compression, super light flywheel, 38mm & 48mm valves with huge ports, 44 Webers and open exhaust with a cookie cutter megaphone.
With the big ports and open exhaust it doesn't even get out of it's own way until 4k RPM's and then it screams up to 7500.
Other than the custom cut to fit pushrods for the big cam I didn't buy any super cool parts for it at all, but it's been tearing up the track for 7 years.
Good engine.
I keep wondering when it will blow up and it keeps not blowing up.
An accusump was necessary for track use and I blow the alt belt off at least once every track day. I buy them 10 at a time.
That's my biggest problem with this engine, the belts.

Steve, are you aware that there is a fore/aft adjustment on the alternator?

I built mine over the winter of 2007. my only issue was mis-aligning a bearing pin and eating a bearing putting the case back together. Bought new bearings, and I have not had a problem. The engine is ready to go in the car, as soon as the car is ready to accept the engine.

Zach

Orange,
The heads you picked up off me were not ported at all, porting heads on a 2056 or similarly small engine KILLS the throttle response and KILLS the drive-ability, making only more power at a useless RPM unless matched with a roller cam, broadening the RPM range and boosting torque.

The Royal Purple was used in this engine because it was al I had data on at the time.. This was before we had discovered Brad Penn.

In HP tests we find that the Royal Purple and Brad Penn are very close, but Brad Penn maintains viscosity better at higher temps. The only Royal Purple I use is the Max Cycle, motorcycle oil.... The engine will rev faster with it in the sump and I consider the two very similar in wear reduction.

sww914,
Glad to hear that combination is holding up well.. The 2056 is a great combination and can make exceptional power. Today with the economy the way it is we are selling more 2056 combos because they don't require radical sub systems to be effective and that keeps overall cost down.

I now have a 170HP 2056 that makes it's power at less than 7K and has almost as much torque (and more HP) than a first generation 2270! This one is simple to build and uses a lot of stock parts, coupled to a set of LE 200 heads and a perfect cam...

My 2056 was expensive because I bought an engine from "shit head" Stomburg. Jake and Ron Grider bailed me out. I bought new heads, and a cam from Jake and Ron assembled the engine. I am running Jenvey throttle bodies and an Emerald M3d ECU.

The turning parts were balanced, the cylinders were re-machined, the rods were rebuilt. Getting all the right engine parts was a big and expensive part of the rebuild. The other part that was a big problem was programming the ECU.

Now that all that is behind me the engine is great. I had it dynoed and dialed-in. the printouts indicated an output of about 150 to 160HP and 175 ft.lb. of torque. The car is kick to drive after all is said and done it was great learning experience and fun to do.

Bill

Bill, thats one hell of a lot of torque from a stock stroke engine!!! Congrats!

Dealing with the wrong people can make these projects much more expensive.. LOTS of people ended up in the same situation that you did when dealing with "the shadow".

Great reading... now how does one come up with a 2056? Please excuse my silly question.

When I get around to it.. I was thinking of making a build out of 1.8 to a with what I understand a set of 96 mm's- most likely parts form Jake's site.

Follow the 1.7/ 1.8 >> 2.0 conversion article on my forums to do this.. I even go over the parts that should be purchased new and the used/ core parts needed as well.

Its all there in 5,000 words or less :-)

my 2056 was expensive (>$7000) because i farmed out pretty much everything as i had no time to take on the total project. mcmark did the motor and chris/ed at CFR did the install for me. i have had no issues other than an exhaust leak but that does not pertain to the motor. i am very pleased with how everything has worked out with the engine.

but the exhaust leak has come back!!!!

ah well, a project for this weekend i suppose...

Follow Jake's advice for the complete answer. But I think the short answer to your question is that a 2056 is a Type IV with 2.0 liter crank and 96mm pistons.

See this link for possible combinations: Tuna Can Displacement Chart

i have never built one...but follow this engines threads closely....
in case i may build one in the future.

I guess it all depends on what you want to spend or do with the engine.
Things like Carbs or SDS or Stock EFI.
Tangerine, Euro race, KH, SSI or stock HE's and muffler.
Are you goig to Full flow and get an oil cooler?
What ignition do you want. Mallory, or something less.
I started collecting parts that would work on my 2.0L Like Tangerine, and piece by piece Mallory ignition. and came across some 44 IDF's from a parts car I bought.
So price it out part by part including the support systems. and then either by the full kit or be brave piece it together.

my 2098 was about 2500 for the long block. then add the rest.
Power? no idea but it sure screams,

Now I can swap all them fancy support parts to the 2316-210 and scream even louder. WOOT!!!!!!!

Thanks for the advice

how did you get the ceramic lifters in that $??? was it before there unubtainium status? don't they now run close to that total?

I built a 2056 about two years ago. It is in my 912E and I think Jake sends a slightly different cam for the 912 ....little more torque. Mine runs great, I love the torque and keep it to 6000 RPM. I drove from Atlanta to Charlotte this summer for the PCA convention and got 28 MPG . That was with some 40MM carbs I had . Now I have just installed 44 MM EMPIs that I got from Jake. It still needs to "tuned" for the new carbs but I expect great results. Go for it you will be pleased!

IIRC, I got them for $500 when they were available.

Yeah, I learned that one the hard way like most things. I built a stronger top mount, had a larger billet alt pulley made, refined my stronger top mount, etc., and I've pretty much resigned myself to putting a new belt on it every morning that I race.
If it lasts through the first 2 practice sessions I just leave it off for the rest of the day. I get a couple more HP for the TT and the race that way.
It only take a couple of minutes with no heater stuff and no sheet metal in the way. I don't even need to roll around on the ground, I can get it all from the top.

Hahaha! Someone necro-polled!
And I just necro-posted.

I wish this board indicated what pole selection you answered. it would be interesting to see what I had to say back in 2008.

Zach

mine was easy...
under $3K
no issues during build
no issues with break in or afterwards...
If I do a rebuild again on a type 4 it will be another 2056, Great bang for the buck

first off I'd be very interested in what Orange914's real costs were, what brand pistons rings etc.. were used, compression ratio etc... and what induction system/ exhaust system was used.

please tell us more about your build up, since you are" extremely happy " with your motor, please tell us more about it.

currently i am planing one for my dead 2.0 liter. I plan to run stock D-jet and exhaust system.

I'd like to know more about the quality of the pistons available (what brands are available?) and how they are designed (ie wrist pin hieght in relation to stock 2.0 liter pistons, and are they doomed, dished, flat topped))
I'd liek to get an idea of piston quality and compression ratios they give with stock heads.

can you all give some more details on piston brands, adn quality?


thanks

I can tell you mine..
Raby supplied 96mm J&E pistons flat tops, forget the ring manuf...
Raby 9550 cam and lifters
OEM Factory 2.0L heads with 42x38 valves ported..
CR is 9 to 1
tight .45 deck ht

I tuned the Djet (MPS)...AFR is 14.2 to 1 at 2500rpms, WOT is 11 to 1 and levels off at 13 to 1 at 6000rpms.

Engine rocks and anyone who has driven it can't believe its a 2056 four.

Cost about $3000 for the rebuild but would be more now as the cost of heads is much more but worth it.

Great thanks for the details!!!!!


ok, so far on this thread we got at least four brands of big bore pistons:


1...KB

2...AA

3...European motor works

4...J and E



of these four brands, what are the pros-cons of each? quality issues? fit? top configuration...etc....?


I am curooius as I will likely by purchasing new pistons this week.


I'd like to know the scoop on the psitons available for the the big bore 2.0 liter

thanks in advance

The "Best" way is to reuse your 94mm cylinders and have them bored out! The steel is much better quality than the stuff out there. If you are taking apart a engine be careful not to damage the cylinder fins etc...
You pack them up and send them to Raby and have them bored out properly to match the 96mm pistons...go for the J&E's if you can afford it.
If you are planning on buying the pistons separately then you have to have some shop bore them out and hone the cylinders in a clamping fixture to torque em into shape to the correct tolerances...

AA are ok for a bus engine but....also I am running those in my Westy for now.

whats the good thing with J and E's???? you indicate they are expensive. what is the good thing about them?

I have heard about AA for Wasserboxers, that they are not made right with wrong wrist pin hole spacing , resulting in a low compression dog motor , then i heard they moved the pin hole, but changed teh tops so they became overly high compression hand grenade pistons (or visa versa) at any rate they got a bad name for wasserboxer owners. so for that reason I'd stay away from them unless I hear other wise

I have heard bad things about the AA sets for higher compression motors.

In my motor I am running KB flat top pistons. My deck height is .040 for a 9.2:1 CR. The motor PULLS. I am still tuning the carbs, and when I get them set this is going to be a great motor.

I gave ScottyB a ride at Plaskets BBQ during the tuning session, and he could not believe it was a 2L.

Zach

Funny this popped back up.. I am assembling a 2056 tonight, its the 160K mile engine that I tore down in this article on my site. I built this in 2002 for my personal 912E
http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/index.p...&Itemid=112

I am going back together with it almost exactly the same way, except with a new set of RS+ heads because the 2 liter castings were toast (as they ALWAYS are). I am actually going down on camshaft from a 9530 to a 9550 to better match the desires I have for the engine.

I plan on posting the build up with all the used parts and a few new ones on my site.. The 160K mile KB pistons are even being reused! My goal is to only make the same power the engine made previously, around 130HP at the flywheel, I'd like to see 110 RWHP but at a lower RPM than previously, this is for my 30K+ mile per year daily driver that needs to average north of 35 MPG..

i'll do my best in the details for you, but 2 years back memory... well you know to start i drove every one nut's becouse i was a super stickler for details (at least in my mind ; ). there where many extra things that aren't normally done that i spent $$$ for along with starting from scratch and buying ALL 2.0 d-jet components, new harness (+ modifications M.P.S.), sir andy came thru with the builder 2.0 bottom end that was previously line bored, balanced and 6 dowel pin modified crank that just needed polishing.

pistons: o.e. (mahle?) 96mm (slight) dish
rings: deves
cylinders: rimco bored o.e. mahles (94mm to 96mm)
compression: 9.3:1
induction: 2.0 d-jet, 043 (modified M.P.S.), 051 E.C.U. (75-6), jeff bowlsby harness, insulation wrapped steel fuel lines through out hot engine bay area, fuel pressure 31 lbs. (permanent fuel gauge in injector loop)
exhaust: s/s heat exchangers and monza exhaust
ignition: pertronics (great bang for your $)
oil: 30 mm mellings, 0.40 shim in 1st oil.pres. releif valve, tapped galley plugs
flywheel: 11 lb. new o.e. clutch/p.p.
valve train: 9550 cam/matched lifters, titanium pushrods (valve train geometry done), modified 1.7 rockers w/ o.e. swivel feet
cooling: take care to seal tight and use EVERY tin peice and hole plug, ect...

i also spent way too much on the heads. not that they weren't worth it but i just overbought in hind sight. this kind of forced me to do some extra expenses to justify the $ i spent. i'm not sorry at the end of the day, but as i was modifying the fairly stock car away from stock i've always questioned whether a conversion would have yeilded much more h.p./reliability for the same $? we don't have many miles on ours yet, but after breakin and a few to be expected issues with a new motor like timing (and one unexpected machining issue), it ran great and got 28 m.p.g. on the rough tune. it ran no more 325* on the hotest upgrade hyway sprint @85 mph on a 100* day.

since your starting with a 2.0 you won't have near the expense. i think some of the key things to a good lasting/running engine is to focus on quality o.e. parts as much as possible, balancing the rotating assembly, valve train geometry, ignition. good luck

cool, thanks so it is running nice for you!!!!

I got to decide real quick on piston set to buy (or reuse my factory 2.0 ones) id like a bump in power to keep up,

I also like the idea of Mr Raby's 35 mpg average. I used to get about 40 mpg all highway driving in my old 1.7 car (fully loaded, driving fast) and mid 30's mpg around town/commute average. (that was on good old gasoline, not the State mandated oxygenated, fuel system destroying crap gasocrapoline that the California nazi like Air Resource Board has forced on us, the forced oxygenated stuff cost more and has 10-15% less energy content than the old gasoline, plus the new stuff can be corrosive to some gas system parts, metal and rubber)

one thing is I am kind of set on D-jet system right now, unless I could afford a better Fi system. then a bigger yet motor would be possible, maybe a better mpg motor too, with better fuel control system.

so I take it you really like the KB piston? Just wondering what advantages do you find over some of the others from a technical stand point? is the material or build qulaity, piston design (combustion chamber, pin hieght, etc...) that makes the KB your choice? I understand they are forged, which should be a good thing strength wise.

thanks for advice

I'm going thru a 2056 rebuild right now, the outcome of a spun rod bearing. Looked like everything was original when I opened the case, so I decided to 'upgrade' to 96 mm pistons, more performance oriented cam, higher compression and lightened flywheel.

The original estimate was for about $2K in parts, including a slush fund for stuff I didn't know about and $1K for the machine shop to do an align bore if needed, clean up the crank, lighten the flywheel and surface the heads. The plan was to do some/most/all of the work myself. I was given an estimate of about 25 hours for the garage to do it.

As noted above, the heads can really bite you in the butt. Mine had cracks in the exhaust ports. The options are to have them repaired ($400 to $800) and hope the repair is done right and will last, buy 1.8 liter heads from AA for $950 each or buy new from Jake Raby.

I bought new at about $3,300. that's a lot, but it's not as bad as it seems. In addition to the heads, you get stainless valves, springs, shims, adjusters, intake, exhaust, and rocker studs, cam camgear and lifters - maybe I left something out. Doubled the cost of the project, though.

Jake, what are the limitations with stock 2.0 injection when building a 2056 ? Can Lens heads be used for the 150 h.p. motor, or would one need to stick with cleaned up stock heads and 110-130 h.p. ?

Just curious as I have a LOW mileage original 2.0. I held onto. Dropped a valve with 8000 miles on the o.d. Thinking about a stock looking 2056 for my old mans car if I ever get back on it

My pistons were in such good shape at 160K that I ended up reusing them for the new build. I simply blasted them with corn cob media and cleaned them up well. These were THE FIRST 96mm KB pistons that the company made, they were the prototypes! After all that time they measured out perfectly and had no scuffing or wear, you'll see pics in my "rebuild" thread over on my forums when I put it all together after the engine is on the dyno.

The KB pistons are light, super strong and their composition makes them perfect for a hotter running aircooled engine, due to that we can run much tighter skirt clearances than with a JE, Mahle or etc.



My heads were used up.. Len refused to do any work on them and I respected that. I just picked up my set of RS+ heads from him yesterday for the new engine. Head castings have a service life, people learn that when they TRY to reuse the castings again only to spend a ton of money and still have 30+ year old heads that are on their last leg. I can rebuild these new RS+ heads for the next 30 years as they are at the beginning of their service life.

The only new parts I used in this engine was:
camshaft (changed the profile)
piston rings
cylinder head assemblies
main, rod and cam bearings
rods (swapped out a set to save time)

It'll go another 150K+, the crank has 260K on it now and still mic'd out to 2.1682 which is better than stock sizing with only a .0002 ovality between all 4 journals!

Wait till you see the transformation I have given this baby with minimum expenditure. I have all new stuff 20 feet away, but I'd rather prove how robust the parts are for another 150K!

My cost was about $3000 total to rebuild a 2.0 into a 2056.

From Jake’s store I purchased:

KB pistons
AA cylinders
Hastings rings
H beam conrods
new bearings
supervalvetrain kit
1.7 rockers w/swivel foot adjusts
Manton pushrods
gasket set
polish crank
dynamic balancing
sealants

Heads rebuilt by Len Hoffman, all new hardware.

No major issues encountered during the rebuild other than cutting one of the pushrods too short. Very happy with the 2056 after 1400 miles.

first I did not see the pistons offered for sale on Rabys website, but it is a big website, can yo post a link to the piston page????? I could not find them. I need to get my pistons pretty soon as the engien is awaiting, all part and ready to get together. pending parts.

also are teh KB psitons cast or forged, i was told the 96 mm they make are only cast and not up to snuff compaired to the forged ones such as JE pistons. maybe I am mistaken???


I see AA cylinders were used by you, i know a guy who has found AA cylinders to be a bit softer metal when he bores them verse stock cylinders. I have a place that can bore my stock ones to 96 mm, would that be a better choice of cylinder material verse an AA one?


I am looking to get a nice daily driver with D-jet with a bit of performance boost, fully balanced smooth motor for long life and decent economy on gas.

just have to select the best parts for it now.

thanks in advance!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/store/home.php?cat=273



Who were they and how many thousand sets have they had pass through their doors??

These KBs have 160K miles on them. I measured them and inspected them and just dropped the crank back into my personal engine that they came from.. I will be REUSING these same 160K mile pistons with just new rings as they spec out perfectly.

JE pistons and many other forged units have negative aspects on the street, to include oil consumption and rattling when cold, these do not.
http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/index.p...&Itemid=112



We don't use them off the shelf in our engines. Boring the stock cylinders isn't easy if done right as it requires a torque plate to hone the cylinder under load. It also requires that you know the target roughness average (RA) that the rings you are using and the plateau finish specs.



Exactly what my engine linked above did for 160K miles, exactly what it will be doing for another 160K miles once I complete the work I am doing to it now. Keep in mind that engine saw zero repair in 8 years and 160K and went over 6 years with no valve adjustment necessary, just checks. It went as much as 23,000 miles on a single oil service.



Not a problem at all.

is this right? seems to be o/s +.003

jake: Went to the link you posted, same as the other guys link it takes me to the engine tear down screen, the menu on the left does not have pristons, (I see heads and engine kits) I looked up the 914 menu, found a 2056 menu on that page, and ont eh 2056 page, your websites says the 2056 has been discontinued and you recommend the 2270cc motor for 914 now.



so a couple more qestions;

Do you sell the 96 mm pistons and if so what cost?


what is the new 2270 motor you now recommend over the 2056? is this a big bore and stroked or just a big bore? what is the cost for the pistons/cylinder set for the 2270 motor and can the 2270 be run with the 914 D-jet?

thanks
in advance

The variance in the stock crank sizes is more than .0045
This crank is one of the largest I have ever seen, especially with 260K miles on it. The numbers are correct.

One of the links I posted was to my store site and the piston page.. The prices are there.


Its not a general recommendation.. The 2056 is the largest that can safe;ly be supported by stock EFI. A 2270 is 78.4X96 so thats both bore and stroke. While the 2270 is my favorite engine in general and we do more with it than any other engine, in many instances it isn't the optimum combo, especially when stock EFI must be retained.

I kept my engine a 2056 for a reason, because it was everything I wanted for my touring car/ full time driver to include 35+ MPG and reliability that most people simply don't believe the TIV can provide.



They are in the link I provided as well.The 2270 should not be utilized with stock EFI, the results are very mixed and no guarantees of effectiveness can be made.

Do lots more reading here, on the STF and on my forums, there are thousands of posts about the 2270.

seriously this is shocking, what your'e saying is that the OEM would supply a series of oversize bearings to accomodate this kind of screw up rather than correct the error. in 40 + years and 1000s of VW/Porsche cranks I've never seen or heard of this, got any part numbers or OEM tech info to support this?

jake: I still cannot fine the page on your website with the piston pricing, would you please post a direct link rather than the link to the engine tear down page. i just cant find it on the massive site. or could you post the price here???

thanks

Jake, you say you are going rebuild so you must have some idea of a part number for the rod bearings to establish the correct clearance or perhaps whatever other method you use to set it up.

A part number for a set of bearings isn't going to answer the question of actual running clearance. Running clearance MUST BE MEASURED with the components that you intend to install and these include the journal diameter of the crank as well as the rod bearing installed into the big end of the rod and torqued to spec. At this point a dial bore gauge is set up and standardized from the crankshaft rod journal and the running clearance is then possible to calculate.

If the sizing of the big end of the rod, the thickness of the bearing and the diameter of the crank journal changes the actual running clearance will be impacted. See the Bentley manual for the allowable running clearance, ovality and journal diameters, its all there.

Now, the engines may have been used for 40 years but variances in bearing manufacture, machined sizes of refinished parts and etc will always result in a need to measure running clearances for well built engines.

In engine building you assume nothing and quantify everything, thats the first rule.

The rod bearings I used for my build were my "2.0 Race Bearings".
http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/store/p...=262&page=1


I ended up with .0021 bearing clearance at maximum and .0019 minimum. These bearings are coated which alters my target running clearance..

I have the crank assembled for my engine and only await the time to set the rest of the clearances before sealing up the short block..

Jake,
I have a complete understanding of how and what it takes to achieve a given clearance however working with an oversize crank presents a unique problem, where as an under size journal can be accommodated by an under size bearing (if available), some form of durable coating or perhaps resizing the big end of the rod to a smaller spec than called for by the Bentley, Clevite, ACL, Federal Mogal or what ever manual you choose, applying the reverse of these methods is not an option to compensate for a plus .003/004" rod journal which would lead me to believe the factory would have necessarily had to provide a corresponding bearing to complete a usable engine package. can't see what plating/coating a std bearing is going to do to solve this situation

Nope, no O/S or U/S bearings were used or available.. The variances simply resulted in more or less running clearance because the tolerances are so open... Check out Bentley..

The stock engine is a fairly grossly toleranced unit, look at the tolerance for balance between a set of pistons, or a set of rods.. Its absurd, the same goes with tolerances for runing clearances.

Thats why the engines wake up and run so much better when properly blueprinted and assembled, hell when Blake made 130+HP from a bone stock 2.0 engine and people wonder why, this is exactly why... Control of critical tolerances.


You missed the point.. We coat bearings for a totally different purpose, to assist with oil retention between the bearing and the journal, not to hone clearances. When this is done the bearing coating takes up some of the clearance, generally .0005" so that has to be considered during the journal sizing.

My numbers just happen to have come out exactly where I wanted them with my very large crank diameters for the weight of oil that I intend to run and RPM that the engine will be used for.

If I ever need to set a clearance to a specific number and the components I have don't add up to that size, we then have to go a full .010 under size, then measure that bearing installed into the big end of the rod and have the crank cut to that specific diameter.. Usually doing this requires the micrometer that was used to set the bore gauge with the crank so that specific tool can be used to measure the journal diameter for absolute accuracy.

Its a bitch.

Jake,
Bentley is of no value in this situation.. wear limits do not apply here unless you plan to exceed recommended housing bore sizes (very bad idea) or run used/worn bearings...all booked bearing specs, using max rod bore and min shell thickness show an interference fit on a 2.1682" journal dia. and that's without allowing for proper crush on the inserts. if you don't mind sharing... what size did you finish the big end of the rods to?

still tyring to get the answer Jake: are you using yoru own mix of oil now rather than the bradPenn, if so, what is the difference you see? or is the snake oil not real? cant tell if it is a joke or what?