CALLING ALL 2056 engine owner/builders, survey for past AND future 2056 builders Options

[orange914]

i am interested in the REAL world cost and issues incured by others who have built these motors. i recently finished one and so far am extreemly happy with how strong and smooth it runs. there where issues as with alot of things but after working thru them, all is well. my 2056 probably has a bit more done to it than most 2056 builds, that may account for the successful outcome BUT maybe not. from what i've seen this is a highly sucessful combination.

don't be shy and tell us what ALL was done and your detailed experiance with building/driving it. this could be a great help for past and present 2056 builds.

if there is interest i'll make another poll on presures and temp.'s

mike (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

EDIT MCMARK: Added "No Problems"

[Jake Raby]

I'll enter this one as an Enthusiast, not a professional:

I built the 2056 in my 912E in September 2002, 144K miles ago- it used the first set of KB pistons and the first set of Hastings rings as well.. I coupled that to OE bored cylinders.

The OE head castings had very few issues and were simply fully rebuilt with new seats, guides and hardware. I did our spark plug strengthening procedures to the heads with 12mm plugs and no port work was done at all, chambers were balanced and that was about the extent of the head work.

I coupled that to a RAT 9530 camshaft with Johnson lifters.

I pulled the original crank and rods out and they didn't even need rebuilding, I polished the crank and installed some new rod bearings, main bearings and cam bearings.. I did nothing to the rods, didn't re-bush them or re-size them, because at the time the car was perfect and I didn't plan on driving it much at all.. Then I met this chick that lived 3 hours away and I had 35K on the engine in the first year!

I literally patched this one up from its OE parts and only replaced bearings, cam/ lifters, pistons and bored the OE cylinders.. I didn't encounter any issues during assembly and I built the engine in a single long day at the shop...

When dynoed it made 127HP, up a hell of a lot from the 76HP rating it had from the factory!
I ran the engine on dual 44 Webers for 59K miles, at which time it was swapped back to FI with a Kit Carlson EMS unit for testing. I ran this for 10K miles until the developer asked for the system back... I then installed a RAT/ SDS FI arrangement and it has been on the engine every since.

The last time I adjusted the valves was february 2003.
I have gone NO LESS than 10K miles on an oil change and as much as 23K... The engine has ran Royal Purple oil since it was conceived...

A few weeks ago I did the math on the MPG for the first time in a long time and came up with 37 MPG... The best the engine ever got was just over 40 when it was only 20K miles old and 37 @ 144K of pure abuse and neglect is amazing!

The engine shows some signs of weakness after all those hard ass miles, but I have no plans to tear it down until it has parts hanging out of it :-)

I like the 2056 combination, they make excellent power per dollar spent and are the simplest engine to assemble.

BTW- You should amend your poll questions to cover "no issues encountered" because my build cost less than 2K (at the time) and I didn't encounter any odd issues during the build and haven't in the 144K following it.

This post has been edited by Jake Raby: Aug 20 2008, 11:56 PM

[orange914]

I did our spark plug strengthening procedures to the heads with 12mm plugs and no port work was done at all, chambers were balanced and that was about the extent of the head work.

i've been meaning to ask; do you remember if there was any port work done on the modified 039 heads i got from you. they were a thing of beauty to look at BTW

The engine has ran Royal Purple oil since it was conceived...

how do you feel about royale purple vrs. brad penn with this motor? i was thinking about running it after useing the break in 30w and a full case of 20x50 b.p. i know that synthetic oil most likely would bring down engine temp.'s but it runs so damn cool already. fully warmed on 85-90* day @200* isn't too cold is it? this is a UN compensated duel CHT reading, so as far as i know i ad 25-30* (compensated from base of 70*) =230+.

BTW- You should amend your poll questions to cover "no issues encountered" because my build cost less than 2K (at the time) and I didn't encounter any odd issues during the build and haven't in the 144K following it.

good point, i went back to edit but it won't edit the poll part.

mike

[McMark]

My first 2056 was built with a set of AA pistons and cylinders, redone rods and a balanced crank. Got the cam from Jake (I can't remember which one it was now... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) ) and a set of ceramic lifters from LN Engineering. I didn't run into any issues and spent less than $2000 because I already had rebuilt heads.

I can't believe that was FOUR years ago already...

[sww914]

My first 2056 is still my first 2056. I spent under 3k (including carbs and exhaust) because a machine shop did about $1500-$2000 worth of head work for $300.00.
European Motorworks (cheap) P's & C's, the rings didn't seat until I replaced them with Total Seal rings. European Motorworks (cheap) counterweighted crank, used rods, used rod bolts, used webcam 134c cam, mixed up lifters from the same cam, 10.5:1 compression, super light flywheel, 38mm & 48mm valves with huge ports, 44 Webers and open exhaust with a cookie cutter megaphone.
With the big ports and open exhaust it doesn't even get out of it's own way until 4k RPM's and then it screams up to 7500.
Other than the custom cut to fit pushrods for the big cam I didn't buy any super cool parts for it at all, but it's been tearing up the track for 7 years.
Good engine.
I keep wondering when it will blow up and it keeps not blowing up.
An accusump was necessary for track use and I blow the alt belt off at least once every track day. I buy them 10 at a time.
That's my biggest problem with this engine, the belts.

[McMark]

Steve, are you aware that there is a fore/aft adjustment on the alternator? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pirate.gif)

[VaccaRabite]

I built mine over the winter of 2007. my only issue was mis-aligning a bearing pin and eating a bearing putting the case back together. Bought new bearings, and I have not had a problem. The engine is ready to go in the car, as soon as the car is ready to accept the engine.

Zach

[Jake Raby]

Orange,
The heads you picked up off me were not ported at all, porting heads on a 2056 or similarly small engine KILLS the throttle response and KILLS the drive-ability, making only more power at a useless RPM unless matched with a roller cam, broadening the RPM range and boosting torque.

The Royal Purple was used in this engine because it was al I had data on at the time.. This was before we had discovered Brad Penn.

In HP tests we find that the Royal Purple and Brad Penn are very close, but Brad Penn maintains viscosity better at higher temps. The only Royal Purple I use is the Max Cycle, motorcycle oil.... The engine will rev faster with it in the sump and I consider the two very similar in wear reduction.

sww914,
Glad to hear that combination is holding up well.. The 2056 is a great combination and can make exceptional power. Today with the economy the way it is we are selling more 2056 combos because they don't require radical sub systems to be effective and that keeps overall cost down.

I now have a 170HP 2056 that makes it's power at less than 7K and has almost as much torque (and more HP) than a first generation 2270! This one is simple to build and uses a lot of stock parts, coupled to a set of LE 200 heads and a perfect cam...

[azbill]

My 2056 was expensive because I bought an engine from "shit head" Stomburg. Jake and Ron Grider bailed me out. I bought new heads, and a cam from Jake and Ron assembled the engine. I am running Jenvey throttle bodies and an Emerald M3d ECU.

The turning parts were balanced, the cylinders were re-machined, the rods were rebuilt. Getting all the right engine parts was a big and expensive part of the rebuild. The other part that was a big problem was programming the ECU.

Now that all that is behind me the engine is great. I had it dynoed and dialed-in. the printouts indicated an output of about 150 to 160HP and 175 ft.lb. of torque. The car is kick to drive after all is said and done it was great learning experience and fun to do.

Bill

[Jake Raby]

Bill, thats one hell of a lot of torque from a stock stroke engine!!! Congrats!

Dealing with the wrong people can make these projects much more expensive.. LOTS of people ended up in the same situation that you did when dealing with "the shadow".

[0396]

Great reading... now how does one come up with a 2056? Please excuse my silly question.

When I get around to it.. I was thinking of making a build out of 1.8 to a with what I understand a set of 96 mm's- most likely parts form Jake's site.

[Jake Raby]

Follow the 1.7/ 1.8 >> 2.0 conversion article on my forums to do this.. I even go over the parts that should be purchased new and the used/ core parts needed as well.

Its all there in 5,000 words or less :-)

[scottb]

my 2056 was expensive (>$7000) because i farmed out pretty much everything as i had no time to take on the total project. mcmark did the motor and chris/ed at CFR did the install for me. i have had no issues other than an exhaust leak but that does not pertain to the motor. i am very pleased with how everything has worked out with the engine.

but the exhaust leak has come back!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

ah well, a project for this weekend i suppose... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

[Matt Meyer]

Great reading... now how does one come up with a 2056? Please excuse my silly question.

When I get around to it.. I was thinking of making a build out of 1.8 to a with what I understand a set of 96 mm's- most likely parts form Jake's site.

Follow Jake's advice for the complete answer. But I think the short answer to your question is that a 2056 is a Type IV with 2.0 liter crank and 96mm pistons.

See this link for possible combinations: Tuna Can Displacement Chart

[pete-stevers]

i have never built one...but follow this engines threads closely....
in case i may build one in the future.

[Joe Ricard]

I guess it all depends on what you want to spend or do with the engine.
Things like Carbs or SDS or Stock EFI.
Tangerine, Euro race, KH, SSI or stock HE's and muffler.
Are you goig to Full flow and get an oil cooler?
What ignition do you want. Mallory, or something less.
I started collecting parts that would work on my 2.0L Like Tangerine, and piece by piece Mallory ignition. and came across some 44 IDF's from a parts car I bought.
So price it out part by part including the support systems. and then either by the full kit or be brave piece it together.

my 2098 was about 2500 for the long block. then add the rest.
Power? no idea but it sure screams,

Now I can swap all them fancy support parts to the 2316-210 and scream even louder. WOOT!!!!!!!

[0396]

Follow the 1.7/ 1.8 >> 2.0 conversion article on my forums to do this.. I even go over the parts that should be purchased new and the used/ core parts needed as well.

Its all there in 5,000 words or less :-)

Thanks for the advice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[orange914]

My first 2056 was built with a set of AA pistons and cylinders, redone rods and a balanced crank. Got the cam from Jake (I can't remember which one it was now... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) ) and a set of ceramic lifters from LN Engineering. I didn't run into any issues and spent less than $2000 because I already had rebuilt heads.

I can't believe that was FOUR years ago already...

how did you get the ceramic lifters in that $??? was it before there unubtainium status? don't they now run close to that total?

[Al Meredith]

I built a 2056 about two years ago. It is in my 912E and I think Jake sends a slightly different cam for the 912 ....little more torque. Mine runs great, I love the torque and keep it to 6000 RPM. I drove from Atlanta to Charlotte this summer for the PCA convention and got 28 MPG . That was with some 40MM carbs I had . Now I have just installed 44 MM EMPIs that I got from Jake. It still needs to "tuned" for the new carbs but I expect great results. Go for it you will be pleased!

[McMark]

how did you get the ceramic lifters in that $??? was it before there unubtainium status? don't they now run close to that total?

IIRC, I got them for $500 when they were available.