polishing clear paint.....how to..., i can' have this in the flare thread Options

[pete-stevers]

Ok i admit it i don't have the eye for applying clear(paint)...or else i just don't have the lighting, i would prefer to blame it on the lighting, because really why would i blame myself for all these fricken runs.
.....that is the intro to me blowing way way to much clear on my newly flared car,
mind you it looks great, but there are more than a few runs..er a lot but it is clear and i figure i have a polisher and mucho elbo grease.
so i would like to hear your ideas on how to polish clear, (and runs and drips in clear if you don't mind....)
and how long should i wait for it to cure in this cold weather....zero-ish
step by step

[slow914]

Runs are a bitch but def fixable, the key is dont get ahead of yourself.

You need to start with a razor blade, round the corners with a little sandpaper for safety, and start scraping the run flat focus on just the run itself and work it down over manny light stokes. Specifically keep the blade perpendicular to the panel and lightly drag it over the run which will produce fine confetti of white clearcoat. Dont try to just cut it out, you will irreparably gouge it. You will see and feel the run losing elevation until you are unable to just scrape it without scraping the surrounding clear. Actual drips are the hardest, change directions on them a lot and dont always start at the same spot to avoid making low spots around them.

Now get a very hard very small block, Wesco sells something called the unigrit, these work great, I dont trust the grit in it myself, so I wrap it with a small piece of 1000 grit sandpaper and begin blocking my scrapings till all razor gouges are gone, go to 1200, then get a regular wet sanding block flexable style and move on to 1500 then 2000.

At this point I like to Da the panel with 3000 grit trizact paper from 3m(this is actually my favorite product, i could write a thread about it haha) Although not necessary it cutts buffing time and reduces burn though risk and allows you to see your work quite clearly before you buff(have you ever tried to wetsand after getting compound all over a panel) If you use this remember to keep the panel wet just like wetsanding


GOOD LUCK, we had a run happy painter for a while when I was still a buffer. I have a lot of practice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif) . Feel free to ask any questions


EDIT: I have never met a painter that has made a mistake, ALWAYS the booth, the product, the gun, the temp, the lighting is probably the number one excu- i mean reason for mistakes really

and a good way to know when your clear has cured is jab your fingernail into a run or drip, it shouldn't indent or it is very likely to simply tear off while fixing

[ssstikircr]

Runs are a bitch but def fixable, the key is dont get ahead of yourself.

You need to start with a razor blade, round the corners with a little sandpaper for safety, and start scraping the run flat focus on just the run itself and work it down over manny light stokes. Specifically keep the blade perpendicular to the panel and lightly drag it over the run which will produce fine confetti of white clearcoat. Dont try to just cut it out, you will irreparably gouge it. You will see and feel the run losing elevation until you are unable to just scrape it without scraping the surrounding clear. Actual drips are the hardest, change directions on them a lot and dont always start at the same spot to avoid making low spots around them.

Now get a very hard very small block, Wesco sells something called the unigrit, these work great, I dont trust the grit in it myself, so I wrap it with a small piece of 1000 grit sandpaper and begin blocking my scrapings till all razor gouges are gone, go to 1200, then get a regular wet sanding block flexable style and move on to 1500 then 2000.

At this point I like to Da the panel with 3000 grit trizact paper from 3m(this is actually my favorite product, i could write a thread about it haha) Although not necessary it cutts buffing time and reduces burn though risk and allows you to see your work quite clearly before you buff(have you ever tried to wetsand after getting compound all over a panel)


GOOD LUCK, we had a run happy painter for a while when I was still a buffer. I have a lot of practice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif) . Feel free to ask any questions


EDIT: I have never met a painter that has made a mistake, ALWAYS the booth, the product, the gun, the temp, the lighting is probably the number one excu- i mean reason for mistakes really

and a good way to know when your clear has cured is jab your fingernail into a run or drip, it shouldn't indent or it is very likely to simply tear off while fixing

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Just take your time and DO NOT RUSH

[PeeGreen 914]

Runs are a bitch but def fixable, the key is dont get ahead of yourself.

You need to start with a razor blade, round the corners with a little sandpaper for safety, and start scraping the run flat focus on just the run itself and work it down over manny light stokes. Specifically keep the blade perpendicular to the panel and lightly drag it over the run which will produce fine confetti of white clearcoat. Dont try to just cut it out, you will irreparably gouge it. You will see and feel the run losing elevation until you are unable to just scrape it without scraping the surrounding clear. Actual drips are the hardest, change directions on them a lot and dont always start at the same spot to avoid making low spots around them.

Now get a very hard very small block, Wesco sells something called the unigrit, these work great, I dont trust the grit in it myself, so I wrap it with a small piece of 1000 grit sandpaper and begin blocking my scrapings till all razor gouges are gone, go to 1200, then get a regular wet sanding block flexable style and move on to 1500 then 2000.

At this point I like to Da the panel with 3000 grit trizact paper from 3m(this is actually my favorite product, i could write a thread about it haha) Although not necessary it cutts buffing time and reduces burn though risk and allows you to see your work quite clearly before you buff(have you ever tried to wetsand after getting compound all over a panel)


GOOD LUCK, we had a run happy painter for a while when I was still a buffer. I have a lot of practice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif) . Feel free to ask any questions


EDIT: I have never met a painter that has made a mistake, ALWAYS the booth, the product, the gun, the temp, the lighting is probably the number one excu- i mean reason for mistakes really

and a good way to know when your clear has cured is jab your fingernail into a run or drip, it shouldn't indent or it is very likely to simply tear off while fixing

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Just take your time and DO NOT RUSH

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I really have no idea. I'm just learning myself but thought it sounded good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)