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pete-stevers |
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saved from fire! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,648 Joined: 10-October 04 From: Abbotsford,BC, Canada Member No.: 2,914 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
Ok i admit it i don't have the eye for applying clear(paint)...or else i just don't have the lighting, i would prefer to blame it on the lighting, because really why would i blame myself for all these fricken runs.
.....that is the intro to me blowing way way to much clear on my newly flared car, mind you it looks great, but there are more than a few runs..er a lot but it is clear and i figure i have a polisher and mucho elbo grease. so i would like to hear your ideas on how to polish clear, (and runs and drips in clear if you don't mind....) and how long should i wait for it to cure in this cold weather....zero-ish step by step |
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scotty b |
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#2
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rust free you say ? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None ![]() |
Razor. I've tried the nib file, I've tried the run razor I end up grabbing a blade when needed. the others are nice ideas but not worth the money IMHO.
As I said before, wrap one layer of tape around each end of the blade, this wil prevent you from going too deep. It will leave a bit of run above the surrounding paint for you to hard block with 600 or 1000 if you feel better with that. Sand it out to 1500 min, or go all the way to 3000 if you really wasnt it to buf out nice. 1500 is fine though. Buffing compound I would recommend would be 3M or Presta, polishing compound after buffing/cutting, I use only 3M. But that's me and my analness 3M buffing/cutting http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3M-Perfect-...omotiveQ5fTools Presta buffin/cutting http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Presta-Chro...omotiveQ5fTools 3M polishing http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3M-Perfect-...Q2em118Q2el1247 the longer the clear sets the more agressive you can be with the buffer. I have buffed out parts as soon as 6-7 hours, and have done things that sat over a year. I personally prefer a wool pad for cutting and a foam for polishing. The wool pad is much more agressive so if you want you can use a foam for the cutting, it will just take a little more time and effort. Keep a bottle of water handy to occassionaly wet the surface a bit. It helps keeps thins moving, anf keeps the panel cool. Buffing creates ALOT of heat. With compoiund a little goes a long way, especially with the polishing compound. I can make a bottle of cutting compiund last 3-4 cars WHOLE cars. A bottle of polishing can easily last me half a year. For example a 914 door would take 3 qurter size drops of buffing and 2-3 of polishing. You'll notice the opening on the polishing compound is WAAAYYY smaller than the buffing. One drop of buffing is the equivalent of 5+ of polishing. Buffing/polishing is a very annoying process to learn, there is a very fine line between not enough and to much. Not enough and you can still see the sanding scratch, too much and you'll be sanding the panel down and repaintintg it becuase you puled the clear. TAPE OFF YOUR EDGES ! This way you don't hit them with the pad and break it open, you can go back later and hit them with more finess or leave them alone and have a slightly rougher edge then the center of the panel. It's all about how nice a finish you desire. |
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