914 stiffening for street use, revisiting old threads Options

[BGman]

I have been reading through lots of old discussions from you all on how to do this.
It is all very interesting. You guys have some extreme set-ups. I am really wanting to keep the outside appearance very clean and stock looking.

Here is what I have picked up as being the best ideas so far:

1. Repair (cut/weld) any part of the longitudinals that have been compromised. Just a small area on the passenger side- already working on it.

2. Weld in 16 guage steel along the interior of the car (inside long) from one wheel well...around the firewall...and to the other wheel well.

3. Pay particular attention to the area where this piece fits into the corner that joins the long to the rear firewall. (Add horizontal triangle bracing if possible in the corner??)

4. Weld in a small frame into the engine compartment. Square tubing across the upper part of the firewall, under the hinges of the engine lid, and downtubes that connect it to ??? How and where will the downtubes connect? The car is stock, so I cannot go all the way to the rear shock towers.

What size/type of square tubing is fine for the engine bay area?

Thanks.

[BGman]

The battery fits.

I have measured and measured and eyeballed and eyeballed for the carb clearance. Everything seems to be looking OK.
I may have to trial fit the engine into the bay before I do the final welding on the braces. I sure would be appreciative if any of you (who have carbs) could measure the clearance you have. I guess the measurements I need are from the firewall to the carb linkage and from the interior side of the body to the filter on the carb. I am running 44 Webers. I will still probably do a trial fit- but the measurements will let me know if it is going to be close.

Bleyseng- you are right. I probably should fix it now. Trouble is, I am not sure of what the original shape of it was? I think the opening was for an AC compressor. I guess I will know if I install the engine again....