I have been reading through lots of old discussions from you all on how to do this.
It is all very interesting. You guys have some extreme set-ups. I am really wanting to keep the outside appearance very clean and stock looking.

Here is what I have picked up as being the best ideas so far:

1. Repair (cut/weld) any part of the longitudinals that have been compromised. Just a small area on the passenger side- already working on it.

2. Weld in 16 guage steel along the interior of the car (inside long) from one wheel well...around the firewall...and to the other wheel well.

3. Pay particular attention to the area where this piece fits into the corner that joins the long to the rear firewall. (Add horizontal triangle bracing if possible in the corner??)

4. Weld in a small frame into the engine compartment. Square tubing across the upper part of the firewall, under the hinges of the engine lid, and downtubes that connect it to ??? How and where will the downtubes connect? The car is stock, so I cannot go all the way to the rear shock towers.

What size/type of square tubing is fine for the engine bay area?

Thanks.

I haven't heard of #4 before.

Paul

there was a thread somewhere where it was mentioned once, maybe twice. I can't remember where the discussion went, or who it was with.

I think it was Brad who mentioned a set up like that
I'd say use about 1" square tubing
If you don't want to run them all the way back to the shocktowers, tie 'em on top of the framerails (where the inner suspension ear goes down)

cheers,

Jeroen

it was brad:

Square tube across the firewall and bracing from the down tubes of a cage to triangleate to the frame. Down tube goes to the schock tower.

If that helps???

The conversation was on where the 914 actually flexes and where to brace. It might have been invovled with loosing the trunk tin....

So you guys have never seen it actually done? I thought that it was discussed as a proven design.
I was hoping ya'll would say 3/4". I have some extra of that on hand.

If I do it- I will post pics.

it's been done, one person(s) went so far as to remove the heating ducts inside the longs. and replace them with 3" steel tubing with the hopes of creating a "289/427 cobra" type frame

The Cobra chassis and other ladder type frames were never known for their rigidity. Even in its day, dedicated racing cars had tubular space frames. The 550 Syder started out with a twin tube ladder frame, which became a space frame in later Spyder models.

Mike

i'm sure you have good reasons to create a super stiff chasis, but it seems like an "unreinforced" chassis (with no rust problems) would be plently stiff enough for street use. are you planning on making a race car at some point? or do you just want a badass handler?
just curious, n

the latter-

the engine bay is empty, it's cold outside, and I am itching to weld something....

Ok, here is the passenger side all tacked into place- have to make sure that it will clear the carbs on the engine, that I can remove/install the battery, and that I can get the engine lid back in place.

I welded a piece of 1 1/2" steel el (very securely) onto the frame where the downtubes connect. Hopefully, this will give it a strong bracing point. This location was the highest point on the framerails that I could get with all of the battery/trunk hardware staying in place.
-g

BGman,

With carbs and the battery in the stock location, access is already fairly tight on the passenger side. I have a feeling you may be cutting it pretty close with that brace. Just a feeling...

Good luck. Let us see how you do the inner long reinforcement in the cockpit.

Mike

While you are at it, why not fix that shedded engine shelf? It would help to seal the engine compartment for better cooling.

The battery fits.

I have measured and measured and eyeballed and eyeballed for the carb clearance. Everything seems to be looking OK.
I may have to trial fit the engine into the bay before I do the final welding on the braces. I sure would be appreciative if any of you (who have carbs) could measure the clearance you have. I guess the measurements I need are from the firewall to the carb linkage and from the interior side of the body to the filter on the carb. I am running 44 Webers. I will still probably do a trial fit- but the measurements will let me know if it is going to be close.

Bleyseng- you are right. I probably should fix it now. Trouble is, I am not sure of what the original shape of it was? I think the opening was for an AC compressor. I guess I will know if I install the engine again....

from your pic, it looks like you won't be able to get the engine-lid back on.
the lid flange slides UNDER that hinge, then the bolt is inserted from below ...

looks like a solid bracing otherwise,
Andy

Get a new engine shelf from Restoration Designs. They fit very well and are not too expensive. You won't regret it

Dave

hey, where is Restoration Designs? Been trying to reach them. No email return and no phone answer.

Reinforcement = weight. I am thinking in 4 cylinder terms here.

I saw that too Andy,hehe... he's got some cutting to do now to get that engine lid back on.

Geoff

You guys had better give me a little more credit than that!!! .......although I have done plenty of things about as dumb.

The pic is deceiving. There is actually a small shelf in the sheet-metal along the upper firewall that I fit the square tubing into. It recesses the square stock slightly and allows easy access to the bolts.

i take it back and allege the opposite ...
Andy

ok, ok, it was hard to tell cuz the pics looked like Andy had taken them!
Why not run the tube all the way to the rear shock tower?

Geoff

I guess I could if I had the inclination to cut open the trunk for access. Now that I have seen some of the pics of how the longs are poorly tied to the shock towers- it may have been the better idea.