Wut Color to Paint it?, ...a Tale of 4 Colors.... Options

[Tom_T]

Okay Originality experts (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) - I'm going to just ask some K.I.S.S. single topic questions to solicit your guidance on this, cuz my overly complicated posts just aren't workin'!

This question is how should I paint her, after I get everything repaired & rust issues resolved, given that....

I'm not a CW guy nor looking to make my 914 one, but just a true to original/OE & nice occasional driver, such that I maximize both it's current & long term value, as well as long term survivability.

I now know that my 1973 914-2.0 both has matching GA engine numbers & possibly tranny too (but probably not the latter) per the COA & car's numbers that I can read. It's an early 73 2L - built 9/72, VIN 4732901954 & Engine GA000424.

Per the under carpet/other "hidden" areas + COA - it's originally a L80E "Light Ivory/11" (white - blah! for my personal tastes) paint color.

ON the other hand & curiously, the (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) COA says its a "Black Leatherette/31" - when it's CLEARLY a TAN with matching loop/pile carpet !! ...although the L&R door armrest TOPS & Dash etc. are Black !? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

The interior is pretty good condition OE that will clean up well - with the exception of a 2" x 3" tear on the driver seat side bolster & 2 small 1/2" & 1" tears on the passenger seat side bolster & pass. side door top bolster underside (can find matching leatherette to sew-in those sections), a crack in the middle of the dash (new since stored), leather on steering wheel needs AM recovering kit (easy), & missing L&R OE carpet floor mat sections (easy to remedy with nice embroidered aftermarket carpet mats & hunt for OE replacements under that).

It has some moderate body F&R body-face panels & surrounding sheet metal work to be done - so it's NOT an accident free example, nor is it a low milage "garage/trailer maven" at 174k indicated & perhaps up to 190k true counting short periods to get speedo/odo. cables fixed over the time I owned it since 12/26/75.
Pix are posted at: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...93838&st=60

However, when I bought the car just over 3 years after first sold, it was what looked like a 3 year old Tan or Gold paint color - perhaps a first buyer or dealer initiated "Dealer Repaint" at the time of first sale on 11/9/72!

Because of the early aging of the Tan/Gold paint, I had it repainted to Copper Metallic/L99K in 8/76, then again in 5/80 I repaired some small rust bubbles & repainted it to the 911/930 Anthracite Grey Metallic/#??. I know - BAD me!!!! ...at least I was smart enough to go for a `73 2L, instead of a "purdy new" but slower 76 2L!

Notwithstanding the above - if I had bought a 73 914 new MYSELF, then I would've probably ordered either Marathon Blue Metallic/L96M or Alaska Blue Metallic/L96B or another Porsche or custom color match in a Blue Metallic/L99-98 -- get my (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif) BLU drift!?

To Summarize - An early 73 914-2.0 / "914S" with a strong running matching numbers GA 2L, a reasonably nice OE Tan Interior, but with some rust bubbles & 3"x6" RF Floor Pan Rust & Body Damage F&R to repair, & 170-190k miles....

...so how much should I fret researching stuff & putter her back to "absolute original" ?

.....versus just making ME happy with how I wudda ordered the car myself???

AND So the Color Questions:

Should I only consider going back to the factory L80E? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

...or...

Should I research whether the Tan/Gold was a Dealer Repaint & the way it "drove off the dealer's lot" ....& repaint to that?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

In other words - should I even waste time trying to track this 1st color change down? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

...or...

Should I just pick an appropriate 1973 Blue Metallic choice above, as I would have done putting out the "full ticket" new car price??? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Here are some pix for your perusal & "viewing pleasure"....

A TALE OF 4 COLORS AS RE-PAINTED FROM BEHIND REAR BUMPER -
ANTHRACITE GREY METALLIC OVER COPPER METALLIC OVER A TAN OR GOLD (METALLIC?) OVER THE INITIAL WHITE:

[MDG]

Hi Tom, I'll have to take a moment (or several) to read through all you've written but one thing jumped out at me; the COA stating Light Ivory 11. While technically correct it should read Light Ivory L80E. 11 is the Porsche code number that would be on a 911; L80E is the proper VW code for a 914. Light Ivory has been around since the 356 days. (still is only now it's called Campanella White by VW)

I'd go back to them and tell them to get it right - if they can. Bring up the obvious interior color error; that they have written the paint code in wrong etc.. What does the Karmann plate have for a color code?

The biege in your pic could be one of the factory spec colours - Sahara Biege or Grey-Beige. And it's not unheard of for someone who buys a a car, say late in the summer when the next year's model are coming out, when the pickings are slim as to color choice. They take advantage of end of season sell-offs but choices are limited to what is available.

My first 914 purchased in 1983 from the original owner was Marathon blue; the lady lived accross the street and I remember the day she brought it home. 10 years later when I bought the car I discovered the original paint code for Sunflower yellow; I asked her about it - the yellow was the last '73 on the lot; loved the car, not so much on the yellow, sat down with the color deck and picked Marathon Blue. Car was disassembled and repainted before she ever drove it.

m.

[Jasfsmith]

Tom:

Unless you are going to make a serious attempt to restore your 914 for concours level judging (willing to strip the vehicle down to it's shell for a repaint), I wouldn't waste my time considering the COA specs, and choose the paint color that you personally prefer.

[Tom_T]

Tom:

Unless you are going to make a serious attempt to restore your 914 for concours level judging (willing to strip the vehicle down to it's shell for a repaint), I wouldn't waste my time considering the COA specs, and choose the paint color that you personally prefer.

Okay, but how does that affect the value of the car post-restoration?

BTW - I keep getting the confusion over a complete strip down to bare body/uni-body as the only ostensibly "true" restoration.

However, in my day - and I AM an old fart now! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/howard.gif) or nearly so at 56-57 - that was called a "frame up rebuild" or "strip to frame rebuild"!

Whereas, a "restoration" was leaving the car largely assembled - only removing what must be taken off to repair & restore damage &/or to ease the repaint & repair work process, and perhaps stripping the surfaces to be repainted to bare metal if necessary to get a good finish. The latter is what I'll be doing & not for concours.

Back in the 60's I helped my Uncle do a frame-up rebuild on his "barn find" (literally) 58 Vette, so I know the diff!

And when you get into "Antique Car" circles (over 50 years old) - which the 914s soon will be & some 356s are already - it is considered preferable & more valuable to have a well "restored" car with a maximum number of well kept original parts still intact & unmolested - as they say - versus a completely "frame up rebuild" where nothing much is still original from the factory.

These are 2 entirely different processes, and generally recognized within other collector car circles - so why the confusion here at 914world?

Can Pat or some other CWs weigh in here on my apparent ignorance on this terminology regarding 914s????? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)