OEM muffler color? Options

[MrKona]

Is the Dansk OEM muffler a flat gray or a satin gray? Does anyone have a good paint match? Pictures make it look almost like a primer. Thanks...

[jonferns]

I think that what Scott was trying to say is that theres alot more work there to be done than meets the eye. You'll end up digging deeper and deeper to repair damage and in the end it might be more cost effective to buy a really clean tub and transfer all your parts over, that way you'll have a solid original car.

[Tom_T]

I think that what Scott was trying to say is that theres alot more work there to be done than meets the eye. You'll end up digging deeper and deeper to repair damage and in the end it might be more cost effective to buy a really clean tub and transfer all your parts over, that way you'll have a solid original car.

That's an alternative that my old line German 914 mechanic since 75 suggested too, but then guys like George Hussey say to restore mine. The latter group contends that the end result's value is far less with a transplant.

Another alternative is to cut-n-paste any too far gone parts from a donor car, if the value is indeed better to keep the matching VIN & Engine numbers together.

Another concern out here in the "Peeples Republic of Kaulifornia", is that a transplant or "Frankenstein Kar" could lose it's California DMV eligibility for road use & registration, not to mention disqualifying it for the fearsome Smog Certification here. Even original 914s which have taken of their EFIJ & gone to Carbs face $1000s to get them back to stock & recertified!

The battery tray & support are mostly surface rust which could be cleaned up & repainted as-is, but I'd prefer to put new ones in & repaint to match. There is no rust rot in the Hell-hole - just surface stuff on & around the tray. But I do now wish I'd removed tha supposedly "sealed" battery back in `90 when it finally died & I stopped running the car monthly in the driveway! It wasn't like the pic I posted before then!

The passenger side front floor pan is relatively small & could be resolved with a 6-10" x 8-12" piece of sheet metal bent to shape & welded in place then treated for rust protection. I'll also need to figure out how water got into that area under the fuel tank & resolve that too!

Also, I would say that the damage looks worse than it really is - yeah-yeah, I know we all say that at first! But in reality, it's mostly the F&R bumpers/etc. & deck lids, with potential need to cut in F&R body face panels & LF Headlite Assy. & Fender - if these cannot be straightened.

A dead car such as this below could be had for under $500 for use as either a parts donor or transfer tub, seems to have all of the parts which I'd need - if they're clean & if it's still available or another.....