OEM muffler color? Options

[MrKona]

Is the Dansk OEM muffler a flat gray or a satin gray? Does anyone have a good paint match? Pictures make it look almost like a primer. Thanks...

[Scott S]

I totally disagree. If you have a relatively straight/clean car that need some cosmetic bits – heck, even a quarter panel – I am all about fixing what needs to be done and keeping the car as a true “survivor”. Pats car is the perfect example of this at the utmost highest level – he replaces and cleans as needed to maintain a magnificent machine. I think you are even correct about true high level “drivers”, cars that may not have been kept as clean, have their areas of “patina” but were maintained and cared for at a very high level – just not a totally anal level (no offense Pat!). With the accident damage, the color change and how it appears the last paint job/color change was done without disassembling anything, I would not consider the car to be either of these.

Now, before I address some details, PLEASE understand that I am in no way trying to bash your car, or throw a wet blanket on your project. For the record, I am horribly jealous that you have the time to tackle it. I would kill for a free afternoon just to wash my car.

That being said, your car has been hit both front and rear. When I refer to replacing the clips, I mean cutting off lots of the front and rear of the car. I would probably go as far back as the middle of the front wheel wells (just infront of the strut towers) and as far forward as the cross brace in the rear trunk.
The car has three paint jobs and judging from the pics of the nose, the trunks were painted assembled – so the wiring harnesses, latches, etc etc etc have all been painted over. I am also concerned that by virtue of the rusted/broken suspension mount, that there could be some other rust issues hiding under that undercoating. Taking just these listed concerns into account, if the car was simply made functional and made straight enough for a new paint job, for me personally, without the details being addressed, I would never consider the car a survivor with any of the value that label can bring. I would call it simply a fun driver – and there is sure nothing wrong with that – that’s what I consider my car to be.

[Tom_T]

I totally disagree. If you have a relatively straight/clean car that need some cosmetic bits – heck, even a quarter panel – I am all about fixing what needs to be done and keeping the car as a true “survivor”. Pats car is the perfect example of this at the utmost highest level – he replaces and cleans as needed to maintain a magnificent machine. I think you are even correct about true high level “drivers”, cars that may not have been kept as clean, have their areas of “patina” but were maintained and cared for at a very high level – just not a totally anal level (no offense Pat!). With the accident damage, the color change and how it appears the last paint job/color change was done without disassembling anything, I would not consider the car to be either of these.

Now, before I address some details, PLEASE understand that I am in no way trying to bash your car, or throw a wet blanket on your project. For the record, I am horribly jealous that you have the time to tackle it. I would kill for a free afternoon just to wash my car.

That being said, your car has been hit both front and rear. When I refer to replacing the clips, I mean cutting off lots of the front and rear of the car. I would probably go as far back as the middle of the front wheel wells (just infront of the strut towers) and as far forward as the cross brace in the rear trunk.
The car has three paint jobs and judging from the pics of the nose, the trunks were painted assembled – so the wiring harnesses, latches, etc etc etc have all been painted over. I am also concerned that by virtue of the rusted/broken suspension mount, that there could be some other rust issues hiding under that undercoating. Taking just these listed concerns into account, if the car was simply made functional and made straight enough for a new paint job, for me personally, without the details being addressed, I would never consider the car a survivor with any of the value that label can bring. I would call it simply a fun driver – and there is sure nothing wrong with that – that’s what I consider my car to be.

Thanx for the clarifications Scott & no offense taken - that's what I'm here for! ...basically to find out how "anal" I need to be on this project.

Don't be too jealous about my "time availability", as the real estate sector basically "sucks gas" right now & I have learned to just "go fishin' " to a certain extent in such times - being in the business since 1970. ...plus some of my spare time now online is driven by what I hope is a short time illness/health issue!

Even at that - keep in mind ALL that I made NO attempt to clean up nor wipe down anything for these pix, as I had limited time & was more concerned with assessing serious rust damage & documenting the body work needed for getting this type of input. Ergo - if it looks rusty on the surface, then it's just surface rust to deal with & "passed" my screwdriver prodding tests!

You're correct on the "as assembled" repaint overspray & it actually goes back to the first Tan/Gold possible buyer requested or dealer initiated repaint before I bought it - that's 3 repaints done as such, with one possibly being how it drove off the lot new. Basically only bumpers, lights, seals, etc. were taken off for those.

I'll certainly be taking both the earlier swap running gear (if I don't lose my CA DMV Smog Exemption by doing so), & your cut-n-paste suggestions above, into consideration with whomever I finally get for the bodywork! However, I don't want to cause even more huge costs to recertify the car with DMV if a "transplant" does that (I'll have to check with DMV), and others in CA on these forums have had similar problems.

As to the the "rusted/broken suspension mount" - I'm not sure to which of the following you're referring, but....

The battery tray area suspension mount is solid - I've poked around both sides, etc. to check it out well.

The front pass-side floor pan area with the "L" rust area is the mount/plate for the steering rack, and the mounting reinforcement plate is solid, but the sheet metal around it is rusted - & I think that's what you're talking about as a concern - correct?

It's below the cowl & fuel tank area & I've pulled off the steering gear cover plate to check that area up behind there, prodded with screwdriver, etc. & found no other rust damage around there, nor on the opposite driver-side. I'll have my mechanic & body guys advise on how best to fix it - but I'm hopeful it will just need a new Sheet metal repair plate welded into the floor pan.

Any ideas of where I should be looking for the source of the leak(s) causing this rust area to fix it/them?
...I had no idea it was happening at all, until I crawled under there!

What I'm hearing from you & others, is not to worry too much about doing a terribly authentic job, & just get it back to a decent runner to make me happy! - certainly not "CW Anal" No offense Pat - but then again he's actually apparently off that kick now & looking to do a car-beater USA Tour! ...why, he's even advised us all to get the newer 195/65HR15 tires rather than OE 165s - OMG!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Thanx Again for your & All others' valuable input!