Cheap, simple, non-factory FI solution, parts, etc..., Type IV - This oughta be fun... |
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Cheap, simple, non-factory FI solution, parts, etc..., Type IV - This oughta be fun... |
Gint |
Jun 4 2009, 04:39 PM
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#1
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Mike Ginter Group: Admin Posts: 16,083 Joined: 26-December 02 From: Denver CO. Member No.: 20 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
I've thought about doing a Megasquirt for a while now to replace my carbs. I have a Mallory that works great, so to keep the initial cost down as well as keep it simple, I want to do fuel only, but have an upgrade path available for ignition later. Ideally if this could be done for under $500 that would be fantastic.
So... What is the easiest, cheapest, most simple solution for induction parts? Throttle bodies, injectors, TPS, etc...? Which MS unit has the flexibility to do fuel now and ignotion later without starting all over again with a different ECU? Engine is a 2056 that is built on a 1.8 case and heads with a 2.0 crank, rods and P/Cs. Currently running dual Weber 40 IDFs. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (my own note: 40 IDF 70 9A, Italy) |
rick 918-S |
Jun 5 2009, 11:27 AM
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#2
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,492 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
Just spoke with a mechanic friend. He has a complete injection on a Saab Turbo. drum roll please.... Price.... Free (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) He confirmed this should run any 4 cylinder and also mentioned there are a ton of these and Volvo units in the salvage yards so parts should not be an issue. A hall effect distributor and block temp sensor are a couple of the items he mentioned that would need to be added for the system to function. I have a 1.7 under the bench just waiting for an experiment like this...
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banger |
Jun 5 2009, 03:55 PM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 354 Joined: 12-November 06 From: Santa Clarita Member No.: 7,205 Region Association: Southern California |
The problem with using watercooled stuff is exactly that.. It is for water cooled, and assumes that the engine is considered warmed up at 170-180 degrees. This is still pretty cold for an air cooled motor. You would still need an O2 sensor for the system to work, but since they only use narrowband sensors, and have limited adjustment for the fuel map, you would quickly end up with a check engine light (if you bothered to wire one in)
Just spoke with a mechanic friend. He has a complete injection on a Saab Turbo. drum roll please.... Price.... Free (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) He confirmed this should run any 4 cylinder and also mentioned there are a ton of these and Volvo units in the salvage yards so parts should not be an issue. A hall effect distributor and block temp sensor are a couple of the items he mentioned that would need to be added for the system to function. I have a 1.7 under the bench just waiting for an experiment like this... |
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