Cheap, simple, non-factory FI solution, parts, etc..., Type IV - This oughta be fun... Options

[Gint]

I've thought about doing a Megasquirt for a while now to replace my carbs. I have a Mallory that works great, so to keep the initial cost down as well as keep it simple, I want to do fuel only, but have an upgrade path available for ignition later. Ideally if this could be done for under $500 that would be fantastic.

So...

What is the easiest, cheapest, most simple solution for induction parts? Throttle bodies, injectors, TPS, etc...? Which MS unit has the flexibility to do fuel now and ignotion later without starting all over again with a different ECU?

Engine is a 2056 that is built on a 1.8 case and heads with a 2.0 crank, rods and P/Cs. Currently running dual Weber 40 IDFs. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (my own note: 40 IDF 70 9A, Italy)

[DNHunt]

I've now worked with MS1, MS2 and SDS. I've now run all tree for quite awhile over the years and all three have survived long road trips (2000 + miles each). The cheapest is MS1 and it will work pretty darn well. I ran it doing fuel only and used a Pertronix triggering an MSD 6a for ignition on a 2056. I enjoyed that. I felt it had more low end torque but, I couldn't prove it. I did have it dynoed and the guy who did that coaxed a couple more hp out of it so, I think road tuning probably leaves a little performance on the table.

As McMark said earlier, the harness is the real challenge with either MS. When I had failures and I did like crapping out in rush hour traffic a couple of times it was always harness or connector related. Once I broke a wire and the other time the connector came loose. There is shielding that needs to be done and I think MS is more susceptible to electromagnetic interference than SDS, but, it can be overcome.

My only complaint with the system is the correction for intake air temperature. It is extrapolated from 3 resistance, temperature pairs and I found that the air fuel mixtures varied with temperature because of that. The intake air temp in my setup would really vary as the sensor was in the plenum in the stock location and it was subject to heat soak. So, whether the correction was off because of the location of the sensor or the table generated by the program, it was off.

MS, either one, is a tinker's dream. I found I was always getting my laptop out and messing with it cause there was always something new to try. That's not necessarily bad but you got to like that kind of stuff.

If I wanted cheap, I'd find a 2 liter intake, get 1.8 injectors cause they have much better connectors and new connectors to fit them are available (they will put out plenty of fuel). I'd move the intake air sensor to the snorkel. I'd go to a pick and pull and find a workable TPS. I'd use the stock AAR for warmup. I'd buy a MS1 kit and a relay board and start soldering. Then I would schedule a bunch of time to tinker with it and tune it. It will cost more than you plan on unless you work with someone who has done this before. Plan on some dyno time with a tuner if you can.

I think the trade off is your money or your time. I think MS works and probably just as well as most systems, I just think it is way more work.

Dave