911 Lust, I'm thinking about committing a sin... |
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911 Lust, I'm thinking about committing a sin... |
mike_the_man |
Jun 12 2009, 11:50 AM
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#1
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I like stuff! Group: Members Posts: 1,338 Joined: 11-June 03 From: Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada Member No.: 809 |
Hi all,
Ever since I can remember I've lusted after 911s. I bought the 914 more as stepping stone on the road of Porsche ownership, but I've really come to love the 914. In any case, a 911 has come up for sale locally, and I'm thinking about selling the 914 to buy the 911. I know it's probably a sin, and I know I probably shouldn't do it, but I'm seriously thinking about it. I still have to take a close look at the 911 to determine if it's worth my time. And that brings me to the point of this post. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I have a few questions about 911s. The car I'm looking at is a 76, but at some point it's had a rebuilt 3.0l installed, along with a rebuilt transmission. Since I know next to nothing about sixes, are there any visual clues to confirm that this is indeed a 3.0l, and not the 2.7. Is there a range of engine #s that the 3.0l should fall into? I'm not sure what shop rebuilt the engine, but I plan to get those details tonight, and I'll probably be posting another question regarding the shop. Also, I'm guessing that a non-stock engine would de-value the car? Personally I would prefer the 3.0l over the 2.7, but I imagine resale would probably be negatively affected by this. Anything else I should be aware of that is specific to the 76s? I've looked at the buyers guide on Pelican. Sorry for the long rambling post! Thanks all, |
Racer |
Jun 12 2009, 02:31 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 787 Joined: 25-August 03 From: Northern Virginia Member No.: 1,073 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
911 received partial galvinazation in '74 but were not fully galvanized till at least '76, maybe even '77
Even if it has an SC motor, you need to have a PPI to have head studs checked. This is a weak point of SC motors. The more that are broke, the more it costs to fix. Mid years (74-77) are currently overlooked, but will no doubt gain attention, especially for unmolested examples in the coming years. The 3.0 is the better motor, but obviously not original. Make sure the airbox has a pop-off valve and that oil fed tensioners have been retrofitted as well. Otherwise, the motor should be both bulletproof and strong! Check for rust in the usual spots - cowl, batterybox (front suspension).. door jams.. If a targa, be sure to check the rear window seals. Targas are notorious for leaking.. and the water collects along the rear floor, seats and engine firewall. Having enjoyed owning both 914s and 911s over the years they both have their good points. 911s sound great and make great track and long distance drivers. 914s, due to lightness, are just as fun but more nimble. Check out rubber bushings, particularly in the rear trailing arms. If the torsion bar tube is centered, that is good.. it it rubs at the "bottom" the bushings need replacement. |
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