Fuel Tank Crud? Redoing Fuel Lines, Etc. Options

[kenshapiro2002]

So, in my continuing fuel starvation saga (another thread), I'm almost ready to rebuild the webers. Rode her hard again yesterday, and she ran pretty nicely for awhile and eventually started to starve very hard at really hard throttle. Took a very good look in the tank, and the walls look pristine, but in the circular baffle area where the sock is, there were many very tiny pieces of black crud, and the sock, though very hard to see well, looked pretty dark too.

Opinions?

Also, I'm thinking that since my fuel filter was pretty clean, that the sock might be my real problem...should take care of that before making the carbs clean and possibly getting more crap in them.

If I do pull the tank and replace the sock, shouldn't I replace the fuel line back to the engine? Any threads on that? Can I just hook a new line up to the old and pull it through?

Thanks in advance,
Ken

[jmill]

I accept that the larger jet would be a good move, but keep going back to the fact that the car ran fine from CT to NJ. Then I filled her up with 93 and she started having rpoblems within 20-30 miles. It could be coincidental, but I have to assume that jet size, valve adjustment, etc. had nothing to do with what went sour at that point. I;ve had experiences in the past where the circumstances and evidence were simply wrong, but logic tells me it is a fuel problem...bad fuel (not likely, especially since the problem is RPM specific), or a fuel starvation problem within a specific RPM range. If it runs well at higher RPM than its probably not even the sock. Can it be electrical?

I agree with you here. This one has me scratching my head. It sounds like a lean transition issue but you would have had it from the start if it was jet sizing. Does it only pop from one carb or a specific barrel? Check the accelerator pump discharge. Are the streams equal and even?

If you want to buy new jets you don't have to get that specific. Just tell them you want jets for an IDF Weber. If your sure it ran great before you might want to hold off spending money on jets and crack those carbs open. You have the parts and the book. If it's worth chancing $30 not to then try the bigger jets.

[kenshapiro2002]

OK...checked the accelerator pumps and they are all nice and even. #3 might be a tad less, but even that looks close. So, I fire her up to see where the pops are coming from while watching the barrels. As I'm goosing the throttle, I'm getting gas on my finger from the barrel over piston #1. I tighten up the clamp and she stops leaking. As I'm revving her up, it's obvious that the left bank of cylinders (#1 & #2) are running rough, and the carb pops are coming from the same side. As I continue to rev her I notice what looks like a third emulsion tube emerging! It's the freaking stud that holds down the carb top !!! Guess that will cause some roughness, huh? Tighten down everything and put the air cleaners back on. She's MUCH better (not perfect), and I'm realizing that somebody was probably cleaned out the carbs after the long storage and did a half assed job. I've ordered the 125 mains too. I'll let ya'll know what happens from here. Guessing they need being broken down and put back together with some care.

I accept that the larger jet would be a good move, but keep going back to the fact that the car ran fine from CT to NJ. Then I filled her up with 93 and she started having rpoblems within 20-30 miles. It could be coincidental, but I have to assume that jet size, valve adjustment, etc. had nothing to do with what went sour at that point. I;ve had experiences in the past where the circumstances and evidence were simply wrong, but logic tells me it is a fuel problem...bad fuel (not likely, especially since the problem is RPM specific), or a fuel starvation problem within a specific RPM range. If it runs well at higher RPM than its probably not even the sock. Can it be electrical?

I agree with you here. This one has me scratching my head. It sounds like a lean transition issue but you would have had it from the start if it was jet sizing. Does it only pop from one carb or a specific barrel? Check the accelerator pump discharge. Are the streams equal and even?

If you want to buy new jets you don't have to get that specific. Just tell them you want jets for an IDF Weber. If your sure it ran great before you might want to hold off spending money on jets and crack those carbs open. You have the parts and the book. If it's worth chancing $30 not to then try the bigger jets.