Fuel Tank Crud? Redoing Fuel Lines, Etc. Options

[kenshapiro2002]

So, in my continuing fuel starvation saga (another thread), I'm almost ready to rebuild the webers. Rode her hard again yesterday, and she ran pretty nicely for awhile and eventually started to starve very hard at really hard throttle. Took a very good look in the tank, and the walls look pristine, but in the circular baffle area where the sock is, there were many very tiny pieces of black crud, and the sock, though very hard to see well, looked pretty dark too.

Opinions?

Also, I'm thinking that since my fuel filter was pretty clean, that the sock might be my real problem...should take care of that before making the carbs clean and possibly getting more crap in them.

If I do pull the tank and replace the sock, shouldn't I replace the fuel line back to the engine? Any threads on that? Can I just hook a new line up to the old and pull it through?

Thanks in advance,
Ken

[jmill]

With 12V to the coil and not even a stumble on one cylinder I'm betting you won't see a spark. I'd check the easy stuff first. Check your cap and rotor. See if the contacts are burnt up and cruddy.

Check your coil wire too. Your looking for something that would affect all 4 cylinders.

[neil30076]

With 12V to the coil and not even a stumble on one cylinder I'm betting you won't see a spark. I'd check the easy stuff first. Check your cap and rotor. See if the contacts are burnt up and cruddy.

Check your coil wire too. Your looking for something that would affect all 4 cylinders.

You do have a rotor in there don't you?
and
the center carbon contact is touching it!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[kenshapiro2002]

Yes...I have a rotorin there. Is it touching the contact? No idea...I'm too big to get in there with it. Tried that with the refrigerator once to see if the light really goes out.

The points are not new, but they are opening, and showed good dwell (46 ish) before the car crapped out. I guess I'll do points and condensor tomorrow.

With 12V to the coil and not even a stumble on one cylinder I'm betting you won't see a spark. I'd check the easy stuff first. Check your cap and rotor. See if the contacts are burnt up and cruddy.

Check your coil wire too. Your looking for something that would affect all 4 cylinders.

You do have a rotor in there don't you?
and
the center carbon contact is touching it!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[neil30076]

Yes...I have a rotorin there. Is it touching the contact? No idea...I'm too big to get in there with it. Tried that with the refrigerator once to see if the light really goes out.

The points are not new, but they are opening, and showed good dwell (46 ish) before the car crapped out. I guess I'll do points and condensor tomorrow.

With 12V to the coil and not even a stumble on one cylinder I'm betting you won't see a spark. I'd check the easy stuff first. Check your cap and rotor. See if the contacts are burnt up and cruddy.

Check your coil wire too. Your looking for something that would affect all 4 cylinders.

You do have a rotor in there don't you?
and
the center carbon contact is touching it!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Did you check this from my previous post?
1)Pull the wire from the coil to the distributor/ condenser ( the - or number 1 terminal) put your meter on a voltage range, say 20v, and put it between the #1 terminal and the engine metal, turn on the ingition, does it show 12v? Turn off ignition.
2) take a piece of wire and hook it to #1 termial, turn on ignition, and very briefly flash the loose end of the wire to engine metal, did you see a spark from the wire? Turn off ignition
3) leave the wire attached, pull the center spark plug wire from the distributor and put an old spark plug on it. Lay it on the engine so it touches the metal well - not to paint!
4) Repeat #2, does the plug spark when you flash the wire to the metal?