Fuel Tank Crud? Redoing Fuel Lines, Etc. Options

[kenshapiro2002]

So, in my continuing fuel starvation saga (another thread), I'm almost ready to rebuild the webers. Rode her hard again yesterday, and she ran pretty nicely for awhile and eventually started to starve very hard at really hard throttle. Took a very good look in the tank, and the walls look pristine, but in the circular baffle area where the sock is, there were many very tiny pieces of black crud, and the sock, though very hard to see well, looked pretty dark too.

Opinions?

Also, I'm thinking that since my fuel filter was pretty clean, that the sock might be my real problem...should take care of that before making the carbs clean and possibly getting more crap in them.

If I do pull the tank and replace the sock, shouldn't I replace the fuel line back to the engine? Any threads on that? Can I just hook a new line up to the old and pull it through?

Thanks in advance,
Ken

[jmill]

Right now I'd just look at the simple stuff. Pull off the cap and rotor and check their condition. Is the tip of the rotor burnt up and dirty. Check the inside of the cap. Check the contacts. Are they burnt up and dirty. If so buy new ones. You can clean up what you have now for kicks. Take some emory cloth and shine them up. Wipe them clean so you don't have tracking. Check that your points aren't buggered up and that the gap is correct. Check the resistance of your coil wire. It should show no resistance on the ohm scale.

[neil30076]

Right now I'd just look at the simple stuff. Pull off the cap and rotor and check their condition. Is the tip of the rotor burnt up and dirty. Check the inside of the cap. Check the contacts. Are they burnt up and dirty. If so buy new ones. You can clean up what you have now for kicks. Take some emory cloth and shine them up. Wipe them clean so you don't have tracking. Check that your points aren't buggered up and that the gap is correct. Check the resistance of your coil wire. It should show no resistance on the ohm scale.

To help Ken understand what you mean when you say - Check the resistance of your coil wire. It should show no resistance on the ohm scale. - I assume you mean the wire from the switch to 15 on the coil.
Assuming its a standard 3 - 4 ohm coil, then I = v/r says it draws around 3.0 amps, so to check the wire can handle the draw you would need to put a high wattage bulb, around w = (I^2)*r or 30watts, to test that the wire can handle the surge load.
The coil primary has a resistance of around 3 - 4 ohm, the secondary, the high side has a resistance way above 6000, to give a step up of 2000:1.
The easy test for a high resistance feed on pin 15 is to remove the wire on 15 and jump it straight back to the battery +ve, then try and start the car. Don't leave it this way for long or the coil may fry if the points are closed or shorted.