Fuel Tank Crud? Redoing Fuel Lines, Etc. Options

[kenshapiro2002]

So, in my continuing fuel starvation saga (another thread), I'm almost ready to rebuild the webers. Rode her hard again yesterday, and she ran pretty nicely for awhile and eventually started to starve very hard at really hard throttle. Took a very good look in the tank, and the walls look pristine, but in the circular baffle area where the sock is, there were many very tiny pieces of black crud, and the sock, though very hard to see well, looked pretty dark too.

Opinions?

Also, I'm thinking that since my fuel filter was pretty clean, that the sock might be my real problem...should take care of that before making the carbs clean and possibly getting more crap in them.

If I do pull the tank and replace the sock, shouldn't I replace the fuel line back to the engine? Any threads on that? Can I just hook a new line up to the old and pull it through?

Thanks in advance,
Ken

[jmill]

Right now I'd just look at the simple stuff. Pull off the cap and rotor and check their condition. Is the tip of the rotor burnt up and dirty. Check the inside of the cap. Check the contacts. Are they burnt up and dirty. If so buy new ones. You can clean up what you have now for kicks. Take some emory cloth and shine them up. Wipe them clean so you don't have tracking. Check that your points aren't buggered up and that the gap is correct. Check the resistance of your coil wire. It should show no resistance on the ohm scale.

[neil30076]

Right now I'd just look at the simple stuff. Pull off the cap and rotor and check their condition. Is the tip of the rotor burnt up and dirty. Check the inside of the cap. Check the contacts. Are they burnt up and dirty. If so buy new ones. You can clean up what you have now for kicks. Take some emory cloth and shine them up. Wipe them clean so you don't have tracking. Check that your points aren't buggered up and that the gap is correct. Check the resistance of your coil wire. It should show no resistance on the ohm scale.

To help Ken understand what you mean when you say - Check the resistance of your coil wire. It should show no resistance on the ohm scale. - I assume you mean the wire from the switch to 15 on the coil.
Assuming its a standard 3 - 4 ohm coil, then I = v/r says it draws around 3.0 amps, so to check the wire can handle the draw you would need to put a high wattage bulb, around w = (I^2)*r or 30watts, to test that the wire can handle the surge load.
The coil primary has a resistance of around 3 - 4 ohm, the secondary, the high side has a resistance way above 6000, to give a step up of 2000:1.
The easy test for a high resistance feed on pin 15 is to remove the wire on 15 and jump it straight back to the battery +ve, then try and start the car. Don't leave it this way for long or the coil may fry if the points are closed or shorted.

[kenshapiro2002]

In helping me to uderstand you totally caused my head to spin (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) No idea what "from the switch to 15 on the coil means" What switch? 15 on the coil? What is 15 referring to?

Anyway, I changed the coil out today for a new one to no avail.

Haven't had the time yet to try the stuff you mentioned before (doing parenting), but I'll get to it tomorrow...thanks. Gonna replace condensor, points, rotor and cap. Then I'll replace the car and everything will be fine.

Right now I'd just look at the simple stuff. Pull off the cap and rotor and check their condition. Is the tip of the rotor burnt up and dirty. Check the inside of the cap. Check the contacts. Are they burnt up and dirty. If so buy new ones. You can clean up what you have now for kicks. Take some emory cloth and shine them up. Wipe them clean so you don't have tracking. Check that your points aren't buggered up and that the gap is correct. Check the resistance of your coil wire. It should show no resistance on the ohm scale.

To help Ken understand what you mean when you say - Check the resistance of your coil wire. It should show no resistance on the ohm scale. - I assume you mean the wire from the switch to 15 on the coil.
Assuming its a standard 3 - 4 ohm coil, then I = v/r says it draws around 3.0 amps, so to check the wire can handle the draw you would need to put a high wattage bulb, around w = (I^2)*r or 30watts, to test that the wire can handle the surge load.
The coil primary has a resistance of around 3 - 4 ohm, the secondary, the high side has a resistance way above 6000, to give a step up of 2000:1.
The easy test for a high resistance feed on pin 15 is to remove the wire on 15 and jump it straight back to the battery +ve, then try and start the car. Don't leave it this way for long or the coil may fry if the points are closed or shorted.

[neil30076]

[quote name='kenshapiro2002' date='Aug 25 2009, 05:51 PM' post='1207192']
In helping me to uderstand you totally caused my head to spin (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) No idea what "from the switch to 15 on the coil means" What switch? 15 on the coil? What is 15 referring to?

Anyway, I changed the coil out today for a new one to no avail.

Haven't had the time yet to try the stuff you mentioned before (doing parenting), but I'll get to it tomorrow...thanks. Gonna replace condensor, points, rotor and cap. Then I'll replace the car and everything will be fine.
>>>>
Ken, 1 and 15 are the numbers on the coil, and you must have them connected correctly do you have then reversed by chance - 1 goes to the distributor/condenser and tach, 15 goes to the battery via the ignition switch!
ken PM and i'll give you my phone number, feel free to call me and i'll work you through this -

[kenshapiro2002]

Now I understanf what the "1" and "15" are referring to. What the hell do the numbers refer to? Why not just use (+) and (-) ? Anyway...yes, my (+) is going to my ignition, and my (-) has two leads attached...the one to the condensor/dizzy and what I assume is a ground coming off the same bundle of wires as the ignition wire. Thanks for the PM / phone number offer...will do.


[quote name='neil30076' date='Aug 25 2009, 08:59 PM' post='1207197']
[quote name='kenshapiro2002' date='Aug 25 2009, 05:51 PM' post='1207192']
In helping me to uderstand you totally caused my head to spin (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) No idea what "from the switch to 15 on the coil means" What switch? 15 on the coil? What is 15 referring to?

Anyway, I changed the coil out today for a new one to no avail.

Haven't had the time yet to try the stuff you mentioned before (doing parenting), but I'll get to it tomorrow...thanks. Gonna replace condensor, points, rotor and cap. Then I'll replace the car and everything will be fine.
>>>>
Ken, 1 and 15 are the numbers on the coil, and you must have them connected correctly do you have then reversed by chance - 1 goes to the distributor/condenser and tach, 15 goes to the battery via the ignition switch!
ken PM and i'll give you my phone number, feel free to call me and i'll work you through this -
[/quote]

[neil30076]

Now I understanf what the "1" and "15" are referring to. What the hell do the numbers refer to?

The numbers are industry standard for wiring connections, like the numbers on a relay.
>>
Good point jmill,

The main wire from the center of the coil ( the high voltage) could well be shot - easy test, pull it from the distributor, lay it close to the engine metal and crank the engine, no sparky - bad cable, maybe .