any tips for tuning weber 34ict? Options

[JOE M]

Curious about how to set the carbs up.The timing is close but may be out slightly.I started by turning the air mixture screws all the way in and than backing both off by 2 1/2 turns to start. I let the car idle and than I move 1 side until the car runs rough than back off the other way about 1/2 turn.I did the same for the other side. It runs ok but pops through the exhaust every now and than.It gets better when I take the throtle linkage off.I think my biggest problem is seting the idle speed screw. Is there something I should do prior to starting any other alignment?I read the procedure but I am stumped. What typically causes it to pop through the exhaust?I did check the vacum on both sides and they are real close ( within 1 of each other).

[McMark]

symmetrical (cross bar type linkage) you want your drop links to be as close to straight up and down as possible as well as even between the left and right side. If one is at a severe angle compared to the other, you will have problems because one carb will always lag or lead the other later.

I think this is a slightly improper description, which I've seen reiterated many times. The symmetry of the linkage is irrelevant as long as the butterflies are both closed completely at idle and hit WOT at the same time. I fear that emphasizing the symmetry leads people to focus too much on the looks of the linkage and takes away what they should be focusing on, the actual operation.

I've heard of people pulling out tape measures to equalize their linkage. Which is the WRONG approach. I've synched a linkage that was certainly NOT symmetrical, but hit idle and WOT perfectly.

I'm not trying to attack you, Nate. Just a general perspective of mine.



---Joe,

You should get some air flow from the crankcase breather. You would be best served by investing in an actual breather box. What you might be noticing is that as the oil vapor coalesces in the cone filter you've got, it starts to get blown out into the engine bay as vapor. Your setup will absolutely cover the engine in a ugly, oily spray within a few hundred miles.

Is the motor new or old? 1.7?

[JOE M]

symmetrical (cross bar type linkage) you want your drop links to be as close to straight up and down as possible as well as even between the left and right side. If one is at a severe angle compared to the other, you will have problems because one carb will always lag or lead the other later.

I think this is a slightly improper description, which I've seen reiterated many times. The symmetry of the linkage is irrelevant as long as the butterflies are both closed completely at idle and hit WOT at the same time. I fear that emphasizing the symmetry leads people to focus too much on the looks of the linkage and takes away what they should be focusing on, the actual operation.

I've heard of people pulling out tape measures to equalize their linkage. Which is the WRONG approach. I've synched a linkage that was certainly NOT symmetrical, but hit idle and WOT perfectly.

I'm not trying to attack you, Nate. Just a general perspective of mine.



---Joe,

You should get some air flow from the crankcase breather. You would be best served by investing in an actual breather box. What you might be noticing is that as the oil vapor coalesces in the cone filter you've got, it starts to get blown out into the engine bay as vapor. Your setup will absolutely cover the engine in a ugly, oily spray within a few hundred miles.

Is the motor new or old? 1.7?

Its an old 1.7 that had no compression on a couple cylinders when I got it. I agree that it is more vapor than actual smoke. Deffinently vapor from the oil cap.What causes this to happen and should I be concerned. Like I said it did not happen until I adjusted the valves and timing.Also all of my hardare for the exhaust is tight? Im not sure where I could be getting a leak? It`s a little pop and sometimes mostly has a low ressanance sort of base like a drum.
Where do I get a breather box? Sorry for all the questions at once.