Head Gaskets Options

[brandomc]

I bought a engine last week that was supposedly a 1.7, but the guy didnt really know for sure. After looking at the case numbers, I think it might be a 1.8?? It starts with EB. I took all of the sheetmetal off to repaint it, and everything is really clean accept for around 1 of the cylinders between the head and the cylinder, it is black and kindof oily. I figure this is a leaky cylinder. Do i need new head gaskets? Or just retorque the head? Where do i get head gaskets? Pelican parts doesnt sell them. What should i do with this? It is supposed to be a fairly low mileage engine. Thanks

[VaccaRabite]

It is surely a leak. If you did a compression and a leakdown test, you would likely find that cylinder to be leaky. Now go do compression (at least) and leakdown and report back

If you want to find a stop gap that MIGHT work, check the torque on the head. Maybe it is a little loose. If it is not loose, overtightening by a pound or two might close it up. This won't be a longtime fix, and I'll probably get flamed for suggesting it. But it can work for a while.

Head gaskets were often removed and not replaced due to a tech note by VW for the T4 in the Bus. You engine may not have head gaskets at all.

So - here are some of the possible causes for a head leak at the cylinder.
1) loose bolts. This is what you are hoping for.
2) blown head gasket (expect enthusiastic debate on the value of head gaskets - I don't run one in my car. Others do.)
3) Case at the base of the cylinders is collapsing. (rebuild time)
4) worn/cracked head
5) worn/cracked cylinder
6) any combination of the above, and other stuff that was not on the top of my head.

Every used motor should be treated as a rebuildable core. Even the "great condition, low mileage" ones. Especially them, actually. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Zach

[brandomc]

It is surely a leak. If you did a compression and a leakdown test, you would likely find that cylinder to be leaky. Now go do compression (at least) and leakdown and report back

If you want to find a stop gap that MIGHT work, check the torque on the head. Maybe it is a little loose. If it is not loose, overtightening by a pound or two might close it up. This won't be a longtime fix, and I'll probably get flamed for suggesting it. But it can work for a while.

Head gaskets were often removed and not replaced due to a tech note by VW for the T4 in the Bus. You engine may not have head gaskets at all.

So - here are some of the possible causes for a head leak at the cylinder.
1) loose bolts. This is what you are hoping for.
2) blown head gasket (expect enthusiastic debate on the value of head gaskets - I don't run one in my car. Others do.)
3) Case at the base of the cylinders is collapsing. (rebuild time)
4) worn/cracked head
5) worn/cracked cylinder
6) any combination of the above, and other stuff that was not on the top of my head.

Every used motor should be treated as a rebuildable core. Even the "great condition, low mileage" ones. Especially them, actually. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Zach

So, it sounds like i shoud take the head off and inspect. Is that what you would reccomend? If i do that then do i need new gaskets, or are they reuseable? Sorry if these questions sound stupid, just new to air cooled motors.
What would need to be done to the engine to remove the gaskets and get everything to seal back up without them?

[VaccaRabite]

So, it sounds like i shoud take the head off and inspect. Is that what you would reccomend? If i do that then do i need new gaskets, or are they reuseable? Sorry if these questions sound stupid, just new to air cooled motors.
What would need to be done to the engine to remove the gaskets and get everything to seal back up without them?

No, I'd recommend doing compression and leakdown testing on all cylinders, even if you have to do it cold because you can't start the engine right now. That will at least give you a ball park on what you have got. Compression testers are cheap at any FLAPS (Friendly Local Auto Parts Store). You can usually borrow a leak down tester from Autozone or Advance, and rent them sometimes from Napa. You need a source of compressed air though.

Once done, report back on your findings. be sure to note is the testing was done on a warm or cold engine. Be sure that the throttle is wide open when doing compression testing. If possible, run the engine on a pallet or test stand to get it warm. if not, do it cold (your numbers will be a little lower).

If you remove the heads, be VERY CAREFUL to keep each lifter and pushrod together. They need to go back into the same bore they came out of.

Even if you are or are not using head gaskets, you want the tops of each cylinder to be as close to the same height as possible. You can test this by measureing deck height, and adding shims to the bottom of the cylinder to even it out. You want all 4 the same, or as close as you can possibly get.

Go to Amazon and get John Muirs book How to Keep Your AirCooled Vw Alive, and the Haynes Tech Manual for the 914.

Zach