Head Gaskets Options

[brandomc]

I bought a engine last week that was supposedly a 1.7, but the guy didnt really know for sure. After looking at the case numbers, I think it might be a 1.8?? It starts with EB. I took all of the sheetmetal off to repaint it, and everything is really clean accept for around 1 of the cylinders between the head and the cylinder, it is black and kindof oily. I figure this is a leaky cylinder. Do i need new head gaskets? Or just retorque the head? Where do i get head gaskets? Pelican parts doesnt sell them. What should i do with this? It is supposed to be a fairly low mileage engine. Thanks

[aircooledtechguy]

I would pull the head and see if there is a gasket in there that is getting sucked inward. If there is remove it AND the other three from the other cylinders. Check that head for erosion at the leaking point. These leaks when caught early are no problem to correct. Over time the leak acts like a cutting torch to totally destroy the head and piston.

These gaskets PROMOTE leaks and should NOT be used.

[brandomc]

I would pull the head and see if there is a gasket in there that is getting sucked inward. If there is remove it AND the other three from the other cylinders. Check that head for erosion at the leaking point. These leaks when caught early are no problem to correct. Over time the leak acts like a cutting torch to totally destroy the head and piston.

These gaskets PROMOTE leaks and should NOT be used.

Thanks for the info, that sounds like a good solution. Does everybody else agree? Is removing that gasket going to bump up my compression ratio at all? Just currious. What can i do if ther is some surface erosion? Is everything going to bolt right back on, or do i need any other seals or caskets when i go through this? Thanks again

[Cap'n Krusty]

I would pull the head and see if there is a gasket in there that is getting sucked inward. If there is remove it AND the other three from the other cylinders. Check that head for erosion at the leaking point. These leaks when caught early are no problem to correct. Over time the leak acts like a cutting torch to totally destroy the head and piston.

These gaskets PROMOTE leaks and should NOT be used.

Thanks for the info, that sounds like a good solution. Does everybody else agree? Is removing that gasket going to bump up my compression ratio at all? Just curious. What can i do if there is some surface erosion? Is everything going to bolt right back on, or do i need any other seals or gaskets when i go through this? Thanks again

I DO NOT agree. 36 Years of T4 experience, all of it professionally, tells me you need to use/keep the head gaskets on a stockish 1.7. If you choose to delete them, be sure to calculate and shim the cylinders to make up for the increased compression, something you DO NOT want, especially with the fuel we get today...... If you have erosion on either the cylinders or the heads, you'll need to replace the pistons and cylinders or surface the heads, which ever is appropriate, and shim the cylinders to compensate for the material removed. DO NOT lap the cylinders into the heads. Your eyes and arms DO NOT constitute a vertical milling machine, and they're not gonna maintain the tolerances. You will need head gaskets, pushrod tube gaskets, exhaust gaskets, valve cover gaskets, and intake insulator/gaskets.

The Cap'n

[aircooledtechguy]

I DO NOT agree. 36 Years of T4 experience, all of it professionally, tells me you need to use/keep the head gaskets on a stockish 1.7.

I'm not trying to get into a pissing contest here, but. . . While lack about 10 years of your experience, I have seen on just about every type-4 motor I've disassembled, the head gaskets are either on their way to causing a leak (by being sucked inward) or leaking because of these gaskets. Here is a link to the VW tech bulletin that was issued regarding the use, or should I say halting the use of head gaskets on type-4 motors. VW Tech Bulletin - Head Gasket Removal & Rod Modification

If you choose to delete them, be sure to calculate and shim the cylinders to make up for the increased compression, something you DO NOT want, especially with the fuel we get today......

This is also covered in the bulletin and I agree that if you remove the gaskets, you should also recalculate your static CR with out the gasket to see where it is and if necessary, add a shim under the cylinder to re-lower the CR to your desired level. However, keeping the CR as low as the factory did on these motors will not always be of benefit. The stock CR was extremely low and even with today's fuels, the added bump of shim removal will normally help the motor by increasing it's efficiency. I personally never build a motor these days below 8.0:1 - 8.5:1 for a light performance car. This is what my experience tells me. But that's just me. . .