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stephenaki |
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#1
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Can I get this one dad?? ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,183 Joined: 11-August 07 From: Palmetto, FL Member No.: 7,987 Region Association: None ![]() |
OK, so I have searched and can't find a thread related to my situation, maybe because people are smarter and more experienced than me. The question is pretty much spelled out in the topic description.
The crank, rods, piston and cylinders are 2.0, the heads are machined 1.7, what measurement do I use for the valve adjustment? 1.7 or 2.0? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I am leaning towards 1.7 but would like to get an educated opinion from the group. Help please, I want to re-do the valve adjustment before I mess with anything else. |
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Katmanken |
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#2
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You haven't seen me if anybody asks... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,738 Joined: 14-June 03 From: USA Member No.: 819 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
Which is bigger??
The gap is designed to get smaller as the engine heats up. If the gap is set to the smaller value and it is wrong, the valve train will expand and the valve may be forced open slightly when the engine is hot. (aka burn a valve) If the gap is set to the higher value and it is wrong, the valvetrain will expand when hot, there will be a little more gap and the valve train will make a little more noise. (not as loud as cold) I'd try the max gap value. It's more forgiving. Especially if the engine wears in and the valve gap starts closing. Per the factory change, they may have added the gap due to observations over time that the valve gap was closing slightly more than expected, or the US customers were stretching the miles between adjustments. Ken |
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