V8 guys, Electric water pump?, Is it a solution or asking for trouble Options

[Cheapsnake]

I just saw a thread on a water pump failure and there was a comment about electric wp's being not a good choice due to their lack of longevity, intended mainly for drags and short runs.

I'm just about to install an electric pump in my Rover 3.5 conversion when I saw that, but before I do I'd like some input from those that have had real experience, good and bad with electric pumps. and while you're at it, throw some make and model out there.


Tom

[burton73]

As you guys are going length of engine and the firewall. Rod Simpson told me that the fire wall needed to be dented in a place on the driver side of the car where the valve cover will just hit it. He said it does not need that much but around 1/2 inch or so of a dent. I will get a picture of it and measure it before I do my car.

I am still not sure on the pump idea but Bruce has 80,000 miles with only one bearing problem and Mark has no problem with 40,000 miles those are good numbers. Yes they’re where some problems on some of the guys’ cars and that makes me worry but I think I would be more worried something different would fail with the new trick system. .

Bob

[Cheapsnake]

As you guys are going length of engine and the firewall. Rod Simpson told me that the fire wall needed to be dented in a place on the driver side of the car where the valve cover will just hit it. He said it does not need that much but around 1/2 inch or so of a dent.

If it does become a problem I can take a good 3/4" off the corner of the valve covers and braze in a patch. Works well with stamped steel, cast will be a little more difficult. Denting the firewall sounds like it might be easier but my main concern is being able to get the covers on and off if I need to without dropping the engine. Maybe I'll do both and go for overkill.

Tom

ps: thought I'd have some pics by now but as I was installing my new alternator on my newly fabbed alternator bracket last night I discovered the geometry is wrong. It comes close to going over-center on belt-tightening, also too close for comfort to the headers. Starting from scratch. But it sure was purty.

[computers4kids]

As you guys are going length of engine and the firewall. Rod Simpson told me that the fire wall needed to be dented in a place on the driver side of the car where the valve cover will just hit it. He said it does not need that much but around 1/2 inch or so of a dent.

If it does become a problem I can take a good 3/4" off the corner of the valve covers and braze in a patch. Works well with stamped steel, cast will be a little more difficult. Denting the firewall sounds like it might be easier but my main concern is being able to get the covers on and off if I need to without dropping the engine. Maybe I'll do both and go for overkill.

Tom

ps: thought I'd have some pics by now but as I was installing my new alternator on my newly fabbed alternator bracket last night I discovered the geometry is wrong. It comes close to going over-center on belt-tightening, also too close for comfort to the headers. Starting from scratch. But it sure was purty.

The only valve cover that is an issue is the driver's side. On the driver's side, a few things come into play: engine pad present or dynomat thickness, the height of your valve cover (short, med. or tall) and type of rockers you have. The rockers may dictate the height required on your valve covers. If go with tall and have some sort of engine pad, you better count on denting the firewall.

In my case, I have vortec heads which are center bolt. Consequently, the center bolts support interferred clearing the last two rockers. I ended up going with a mid height valve cover that was adequate for my roller rockers and modified the last center bolt inner support and I'm able to remove the valve covers with no issues...but it is tight. Standard tall valve covers with no baffles or center bolt support should be a heck of a lot easier to deal with.