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ConeDodger |
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Apex killer! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,120 Joined: 31-December 04 From: Tahoe Area Member No.: 3,380 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
I just picked up my car from McMark's shop today. Original Customs for the uninformed. I had him install the Engman Kit I got in the last group buy. I had heard the stories of door gaps shrinking and things not lining up and that is why I gave this job to Mark. My car is a 70K mile preservation and I am only the second owner. The door gaps were perfect going in and perfect coming out.
Nice work Mark! If you are thinking of doing this, I highly recommend Mark and if you are too far away, definitely ask how he did this. His method worked without any body warping... Thanks! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
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ConeDodger |
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#2
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Apex killer! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,120 Joined: 31-December 04 From: Tahoe Area Member No.: 3,380 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
We all also need to consider that some of our problems could be related to almost 40 years of abuse and use of our 914 chassis. If you weld on a panel that has body putty in it, your heat shrink and warp will be diferent than a panel that is just metal.
I drove the car to work today and continue to be impressed with the feel of the chassis. This is a very worthwhile modification. Again, my purpose in starting this thread is to illuminate the method McMark is using because as he said, he used absolutely no bracing, welded with the wheels on the ground etc... |
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