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ConeDodger |
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#1
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Apex killer! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,120 Joined: 31-December 04 From: Tahoe Area Member No.: 3,380 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
I just picked up my car from McMark's shop today. Original Customs for the uninformed. I had him install the Engman Kit I got in the last group buy. I had heard the stories of door gaps shrinking and things not lining up and that is why I gave this job to Mark. My car is a 70K mile preservation and I am only the second owner. The door gaps were perfect going in and perfect coming out.
Nice work Mark! If you are thinking of doing this, I highly recommend Mark and if you are too far away, definitely ask how he did this. His method worked without any body warping... Thanks! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
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McMark |
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#2
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914 Freak! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,180 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None ![]() |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) My way, is by no means the only way to achieve success. And TIG puts WAY too much heat into the long. MIG is quick. 1-2 seconds per weld.
Here's a few more details, with the promised picture. The drill bit on the left is a 3/8" which has had the tip blunted off and a step ground into it. The center locates the bit in the hole and the step cleans the metal around the hole. I'm left with a 3/8" circular clean spot. The drill bit on the right is an H drill bit which has had the tip blunted off almost completely. This bit is used to clean the metal on the sides of the hole as well as pass through the long kit and clean the metal on the chassis. I used this technique because I feel it leaves the maximum amount of original paint on the chassis to protect the long from future rust as much as possible. The paint still burns off in the HAZ, though. Attached image(s) ![]() |
r_towle |
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#3
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Custom Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,705 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) My way, is by no means the only way to achieve success. And TIG puts WAY too much heat into the long. MIG is quick. 1-2 seconds per weld. Here's a few more details, with the promised picture. The drill bit on the left is a 3/8" which has had the tip blunted off and a step ground into it. The center locates the bit in the hole and the step cleans the metal around the hole. I'm left with a 3/8" circular clean spot. The drill bit on the right is an H drill bit which has had the tip blunted off almost completely. This bit is used to clean the metal on the sides of the hole as well as pass through the long kit and clean the metal on the chassis. I used this technique because I feel it leaves the maximum amount of original paint on the chassis to protect the long from future rust as much as possible. The paint still burns off in the HAZ, though. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) I have thrown out alot of drill bits that look like that... Rich |
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