Painting question, color coat is too soft to sand Options

[Gudhjem]

I've begun painting my car, panel-by-panel, starting with the trunk lid.
I'm using Interlux Bridghtsides paint. Yes, I'm rolling it on, mostly because I don't have a large compressor and because I am hoping to avoid all the mess of spraying in my garage.

I spent a few days patching holes (luggage rack once upon a time I think), and spent a few days putting on a few coats of primer. Sanding the primer was no problem, and I've now started with the color. Problem is, when I try to sand the paint, it sticks to the paper. There's no dust created, the paper just gets clogged right away. It's as if the paint's not dry. The can says leave it at least 16 hours, I've left it 28, and it's not cold in California.

Anyone know what's going on? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

--Steve

Here's before primer


After Primer


Sanding Block after trying to color sand

[quikshft]

Well my hat is off to you for giving something different a whirl. I have never seriously considered applying paint to a car with a roller or brush, but as they say, times are a changin’. I have painted cars all my adult life, and I’ve gotten results I could not afford to pay for by ‘doing it myself’. The key is patience patience patience. I always painted in my garage, preferring single stage non metallic colors. Then in 1998 a ’71 Superbee I was restoring needed paint, it was Plum Crazy Purple which was a metallic color. Base/clear systems were popular but I had always gone with my old school single stage DuPont Centari acrylic enamel with the recommended hardner. (So I could color sand all the goobers out, and buff to a mirror finish) I did end up painting that Superbee with a PPG base/clear system, and have used base/clear exclusively since. I color sanded and buffed that clear coat just as I used to do with the Centari jobs.

My current project is the first car I did not actually paint myself, as I noted above times are changing and I have neighbors who I have little doubt will complain to city officials or other authorities if I tried to paint something in my garage again. So after doing all the rust repair, panel replacement and bodywork on my ’70 Superbee project I put the car on a trailer and hauled it to the shop my nephew works at and he painted it for me. I almost died not being able to finish the paint on that project myself.

The point of all this is that if it is possible to get a decent finish done with a roller, a guy could still do it in his garage which is something I basically have been banned from doing for one reason or another, so I have an interest in the end result. Even a high quality brush might be successful, the key would be using a paint that flows out adequately, then dries to a rock hard finish suitable for color sanding and buffing. I was amazed at the flaws which could be successfully removed by color sanding. You know if you didn’t want a perfect ‘show winning’ finish this might be the way to go especially if you're one (like me) who just can’t handle having someone else work on your stuff. I would second what others have said, try an automotive paint and do the trunk panel again. I would bet if you aren’t too picky satisfactory results can be obtained. If you do try again, get the paint on and quit messing with it, it will probably start to thicken up quickly depending on your reducer choice and temps. If it’s ugly don’t worry about it, let it harden up and then go at it with a hard block and some 600 grit wet/dry. Let us know how it works.