F^&*^&*^ing exhaust head studs- Distributor ?, My distributor is off 1/4 turn. How to fix? |
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F^&*^&*^ing exhaust head studs- Distributor ?, My distributor is off 1/4 turn. How to fix? |
JRust |
May 1 2010, 04:18 PM
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#1
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,307 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Corvallis Oregon Member No.: 129 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Okay I officially pulled an dipshit move today. I was putting my drivetrain all together to be ready to install in my LE. All was going great as I had Mr Kona down helping me today. We got the transmission mounted. Put on the passenger side SS (bolted in place by Brian) & all was great. We change spots & I do the drivers side. I've got all the nuts on & am bolting into place. I have my torque wrench on there & am tightening away. It is was to big for the job but I figure all is well. Well I am a dipshit as I overtightened one & snaped the bolt (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) . I do have some nice stud pullers sowhile pissed for being an idiot. I figure I can get it out without to much trouble.
Hell no I can't. Even after some heat my stud snaps again at the head. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) . I then try to get under there & drill a hole to use an extractor. My extractor breaks in the hole I drilled. SO now I have to drill that out too. I am so frustrated & it's my own damn fault. I'm going to head to harbor freight & pick up a new tap & dye set. Any ideas on how to not screw this up any worse (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) |
McMark |
May 1 2010, 10:55 PM
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#2
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
1. Pull the motor.
2. Remove the intake runner on that side. 3. Remove the engine tin on that side (top piece, and the front and rear pieces, you'll need to remove the fan housing) 4. Take off the valve cover. 5. Remove the four nuts that hold on the rockers. 6. Remove the pushrods. 7. Remove the pushrod tubes. 8. Remove the under cylinder tin. 9. Take off the head nuts. 10. Slide the head off. For reassembly, choose if you want to attempt to apply sealant to the surface between the cylinders and the block. This area could leak later, but it's not too common of a leak point, so it's not a huge risk. If you're going to do it, pull the cylinders and clean up any old sealant and do it right. You'll need new sealing gaskets if you're using those (I have some I can send you). Install those and slide the head into place. Apply some sealant to the lower head washers and head nuts. Torque the head nuts to 13 ft/lbs, then to 24 ft/lbs (check Haynes for the pattern). Install the under cylinder tin. Install the pushrod tubes. Install the pushrods. Install the rockers and the pushrod retaining wire. Adjust the valves. Install the valve cover. Install the engine tin. Install the fuel injection. Install the motor. Install the exhaust. (Using a 1/4" socket wrench, never 3/8") (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Best of luck. You'll be okay, and so will your motor. Work slow, don't worry about WCR or any other deadline. If you make it, it was meant to be. If you don't, you can still come and I'll buy you a BIG beer. :beer: |
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