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almus |
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 6 Joined: 1-May 10 From: Kingston NH USA Member No.: 11,674 Region Association: None ![]() |
Greetings,
I am a newbie 914 owner. Said green 1975 1.8 has been in garage in northern NH since 1984. There is rust,but it is surprisingly not that bad. Purchased for the princely sum of 500. Interior good. battery support is rusty but doesn't appear to be real bad. Looks to be about 62k original miles. Gas tank contents have reverted to primordial ooze. Gas tank cleaning kit? or radiator shop? Donor? Oil is clean; must have been changed just before being parked. Can't open rear trunk I am concerned the entire fuel system may be shot. My thoughts are to find a rusty donor car to scavenge. I have some newbie questions. Will any 914 motor fit in my car? If I get a 2.0 donor, are there any years that *won't* fit because of ??? (transmission? mounts? etc?) Any local (to me) gurus willing to show me the ropes? I am in south east New Hampshire. Thanks. -a |
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ClayPerrine |
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Life's been good to me so far..... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 16,374 Joined: 11-September 03 From: Hurst, TX. Member No.: 1,143 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille ![]() ![]() |
From similar experience ... Commit now to a total replumbing of the fuel lines from tank out to tank return. The lines through the tunnel are likely filled with crud. http://www.tangerineracing.com/stainlessFuelLines.htm Highly recommended. Make sure you get metric high pressure fuel lines and proper fuel injection hose clamps. Include the elbows to the injectors in the renewal. Consider sending the injectors out to a commercial cleaner. Costs around $25/injector and is money well spent. Do not succumb to the "Maybe if I just put fresh fuel in it it will start" seduction! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Start by pulling the tank and cleaning it out. Then replace the plastic lines in the tunnel with the stainless set that Chris Foley sells. Put all new rubber hoses on, and all new hose clamps. Use only FI clamps. If they have the worm screw slots in the clamp, they are not FI clamps. I would also suggest that you put a fuel filter inline before the injectors. I use one from a Nissan Maxima. It is rated for FI pressure, and it will filter out all the particles that would clog up the injectors. I also put another filter in front of the pump to keep from ruining the pump with crud from the tank. Oh, and one last thing, I suggest moving the fuel pump up front. It will prevent vapor lock. The factory did this on the 75 and 86 914s for that reason. Plus, fuel pumps push fuel better than they suck it. After you get the fuel system completely replumbed, crawl underneath and unhook the yellow wire from the starter. Then turn the key to the start position. You should hear the fuel pump running while you hold the key in the start position. Do the work to prep the motor for starting. If it won't start and you know you have good spark, check each of the injector lines with a noid light. You will need the help of a friend or your toolwench to try and start the car while you check the light. If they all flash, then hook them back up, and use an automotive stethescope to listen to the injectors. You should hear them click when the engine is cranking. Now if you get through all that and it still doesn't start, I can go into more detail later. Good luck!! |
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