engine pictures Options

[mipstien]

im trying to see what i have and don't have in my engine bay and why i seem to have missing vacuum hoses.
can i get a few pictures of peoples engine bays. possibly one with smog equipment and one without. and what is an anti flash back valve?

[mipstien]

i have been reading a little more on
http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/manif...sure_sensor.htm
(mps) and looked at mine and it has been 'played with' basically the seal on it is broke and someone has been turning the screw. can this cause a stall in power at around XXXX rpms or bad idle? if its been adjusted wrong should i look into purchasing another one or should i just try to readjust it assuming that it is electronically sound?

i know i need to make sure that the whole thing is mechanically and electronically working testing ohms and pressure being held.

one last question about the MPS. if the 'glue' seal that it has is broke on the screw adjuster would that cause it not to hold a vacuum and basically need that screw filled in. i didn't see that on the rennlist sight.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/members.rennlist.com-11576-1274666649.1.jpg)

if that is broke does it not keep vacuum basically?
and is this the answer to my question....

Q: I've heard that all I have to do to get my car to run right is to remove the epoxy, unscrew the plug (whoops, I stripped/lost/broke it when I did this), and use a screwdriver to adjust that center screw until I think it's running smooth? What do you think?
A: Some of the old D-Jet references suggested a procedure like this to fix part-load mixture issues. The problem with this procedure is that it doesn't comprehend that the full-load stop (the "plug") is a critical adjustment in this system. Removing the plug and either not replacing it or screwing it in randomly will likely result in either a rich or lean full-load mixture, and possible premature failure of the diaphragm due to mechanical stress. Also, depending on the vacuum level in the MPS, turning the inner screw usually turns the outer screw at the same time, due to friction on the threads. This causes the part-load mixture to remain unchanged, but changes the full-load mixture. I strongly suggest that you do not adjust the MPS without using an LCR55 to first characterize the secondary inductance vs. vacuum characteristic. Otherwise, you will lose your reference point for all three adjustments and probably won't be able to get back to them by random adjustments.

[detoxcowboy]

i have been reading a little more on
http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/manif...sure_sensor.htm
(mps) and looked at mine and it has been 'played with' basically the seal on it is broke and someone has been turning the screw. can this cause a stall in power at around XXXX rpms or bad idle? if its been adjusted wrong should i look into purchasing another one or should i just try to readjust it assuming that it is electronically sound?

i know i need to make sure that the whole thing is mechanically and electronically working testing ohms and pressure being held.

one last question about the MPS. if the 'glue' seal that it has is broke on the screw adjuster would that cause it not to hold a vacuum and basically need that screw filled in. i didn't see that on the rennlist sight.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/members.rennlist.com-11576-1274666649.1.jpg)

if that is broke does it not keep vacuum basically?


If the mps has been tampered with it can cause all types of drivabilty porblems, including lost idle, power loss at certain power bands, ect. ect. the plug is just a cover. my plug was missing for a year , then i tamperewd with the screws and ooooops!! Screwed myself into a hole.. Luckily my mechanic diod not laugh at me and had an NOS unit, they are expensive and NLA.. BUt there is another solution..

Jeff Bolwsby can recalibrate and replug the mps, he is a memebr here, well known for his 914 knowledge and has a website below...

Basically the MPS is one of the most important sensors on the car, if not the most important..

http://members.rennlist.com/914_wiring_harnesses/
and is this the answer to my question....

Q: I've heard that all I have to do to get my car to run right is to remove the epoxy, unscrew the plug (whoops, I stripped/lost/broke it when I did this), and use a screwdriver to adjust that center screw until I think it's running smooth? What do you think?
A: Some of the old D-Jet references suggested a procedure like this to fix part-load mixture issues. The problem with this procedure is that it doesn't comprehend that the full-load stop (the "plug") is a critical adjustment in this system. Removing the plug and either not replacing it or screwing it in randomly will likely result in either a rich or lean full-load mixture, and possible premature failure of the diaphragm due to mechanical stress. Also, depending on the vacuum level in the MPS, turning the inner screw usually turns the outer screw at the same time, due to friction on the threads. This causes the part-load mixture to remain unchanged, but changes the full-load mixture. I strongly suggest that you do not adjust the MPS without using an LCR55 to first characterize the secondary inductance vs. vacuum characteristic. Otherwise, you will lose your reference point for all three adjustments and probably won't be able to get back to them by random adjustments.