front caliper re build Options

[solo1]

Guys I need help. I took the front left caliper off about a week ago to loosen it up as it was sticking, replaced pads. Drove the car it still got hot so the caliper is sticking. Rebuild kits arrived for all four corners. took same caliper off, pads out. Now what? if any one can give me or direct me to, a step by step way of re doing this I would really be grateful. Assume Im a "special needs" brake mechanic. I have always had some concern about brakes cause it has to be done right. I keep staring at the caliper thinking this cant be that tough have one side piston secured with a C clamp and block. Thats as far as Ive gotten. Thinking I may be in too deep and am considering taking them to a shop and having them to the re build with the fresh parts.

[Eric_Shea]

***IMPORTANT***

I don't recommend anyone use Jeff's method of rebuilding a front caliper. It's very dangerous and, the screwdriver trick is what's damaged "many" 914 front pistons. (Sorry Jeff)

DO NOT seperate the caliper 1/2's before the second piston has been removed. A long steel plate the width of the cavity and a rubber washer from Lowes/McMaster-Carr is a "much" safer bet. Pad the cavity with a shop rag and blow the inner piston out first by clamping off a corner of the outer piston. Then position the rubber washer over that bore. Use the vise to clamp the bottom of the steel plate with the caliper mounting ears and a couple of c-clamps for the top. This will hold the rubber washer over the bore and seal it off. Again, pad the piston cavity so you do not break the tops of the pistons. Use air. If you need to use a screwdriver to get the piston out... don't; move to fluid at that point. A cheap grease gun from HF will work. Remove the nozzle and you will be left with a 10x1 fitting that will screw right into your caliper. Fluid does not compress and the resulting effect will be a piston that simply "plops" out onto your bench.

Air compressed in a caliper 1/2 pointing ??? in the garage can net a piston flying out of a bore at the velocity of a bullet. You decide if that's a good/safe thing.

Personally, I don't use compressed air anymore on 914 front pistons. They are too fragile. I have a special water pump made up to pump pistons out... that said, this is still something you can do at home with a grease gun. It will just be messy to clean up (use brake cleaner and compressed air).

Do not use 600 grit on your pistons. 0000 steel wool is most accessable. A bench top buffer is preferred. Those sides are a sealing surface and, you can risk mis-shaping them with too much grit. I've used 600 in the past and I agree... this is picking-nits, you can use it but go with very light pressure and wrap the 600 around the piston. It's just easier and better with the steel wool.

Wire brush on a drill is good for cleaning the tops (not the sides), then use a heat paint to coat the piston tops (muffler paint or POR-20)... brakes get hot.

Not a fan of honing bores anymore either... this leaves a fresh steel on steel surface where rust can develop. They make brake cylinder hones, I've used them in the past but, not my favorite thing moving forward.

I'm a big fan of taking these caliper 1/2's to a local plater. Usually, for around $20.00, you can go to your local plater (Google is your friend) get a fresh coat of yellow zinc, just like ATE did. The process of cleaning and etching will clean the bores and you will be left with a nice coating of zinc there. The bore is not your sealing surface... the seal and the piston is.

Hope this helps.