front caliper re build Options

[solo1]

Guys I need help. I took the front left caliper off about a week ago to loosen it up as it was sticking, replaced pads. Drove the car it still got hot so the caliper is sticking. Rebuild kits arrived for all four corners. took same caliper off, pads out. Now what? if any one can give me or direct me to, a step by step way of re doing this I would really be grateful. Assume Im a "special needs" brake mechanic. I have always had some concern about brakes cause it has to be done right. I keep staring at the caliper thinking this cant be that tough have one side piston secured with a C clamp and block. Thats as far as Ive gotten. Thinking I may be in too deep and am considering taking them to a shop and having them to the re build with the fresh parts.

[Eric_Shea]

Fluid is probably the only way at this point. I know what you're saying because I see it almost daily. You can:

1. Put them back on the car and try to pump them out that way. You might be able to get them out far enough where air will work.

2. Get a cheap ($13.00) grease gun and remove the tip. You will be left with a 10x1 end that will screw into the caliper. Grease, being a fluid, will not compress and the piston will plop out. Follow the instructions above for the second bore.

3. Devise a water pump. This will be easier to clean up but more difficult to fabricate.

Tip: Not sure about the laws in WA but here on Planet Utah we can still buy the Gunk carb cleaner by the gallon. You might try soaking them in there for a couple days and try air again.

Tip: Using a large C-Clamp, push them back in. This can break the bond of piston and bore and they "might" come out with air.

Tip: You can try heating the calipers outer surface with a MAPP torch. That may also help break the bond of piston and bore and they "might" come out with air.

Tip: You might try brake cleaner around the pistons and into the fluid inlet. This may break that bond and they "might" come out.

Bottom line though... a proper fluid extraction will work wonders and keep both the caliper and piston in good order.
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Regarding ther rears.... here's a few more tips:

Tip: Move the handbrake arm before attempting to remove the inner piston. Even if you have to tap it with a hammer (WATCH THE SPRING PIN AND DON'T TAP TOO HARD!!!). By moving the arm you will move the piston about 1/8th inch and break that bond and the piston should come out much easier.

Tip: Use an air wrech to power out the inner piston after you move the handle back. Watch the handle move forward, pull it back again and do it all over again. This put minimal strain on that inner adjuster. You're basically using the handbrake arm to push out the piston.

Tip: Take the clip and the 13mm locking nut off the outside adjuster and lightly tap the entire thing out. Use a plastic mallet if possible so as not to distort the 4mm hex. Once the hex becomes flush with the caliper, use a 4mm bit and bring it back up to the top. Rinse and repeat. This will literally tap the piston out without damaging the fragile 4mm hex (unless you wack it too hard)

Did I mention that fluid is probably the only option at this point? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) They can be saved.