front caliper re build Options

[solo1]

Guys I need help. I took the front left caliper off about a week ago to loosen it up as it was sticking, replaced pads. Drove the car it still got hot so the caliper is sticking. Rebuild kits arrived for all four corners. took same caliper off, pads out. Now what? if any one can give me or direct me to, a step by step way of re doing this I would really be grateful. Assume Im a "special needs" brake mechanic. I have always had some concern about brakes cause it has to be done right. I keep staring at the caliper thinking this cant be that tough have one side piston secured with a C clamp and block. Thats as far as Ive gotten. Thinking I may be in too deep and am considering taking them to a shop and having them to the re build with the fresh parts.

[Eric_Shea]

the other slid most of the way out and then I can't get it to budge the last little bit for anything

It is cocked in the bore (all you "Juvies" are now free to flail away on that one). You need to take a close look at it to determine which way it's angled, then use a c-clamp to snap down the high side. I say "snap" because it will kinda "pop" or "snap" when it goes back into alignment. Do that and try again.

I can't get the lock nut off because the thread on the screw is all stripped off and the adjuster on the other side just spins.

OK... couple of options here:

1. Use a high speed wrench and a 4mm hex to power those things out. Remember - Counter Clockwise. They should move right out with speed.

2. (You'll probably have to do this anyway) Take a Dremel and a Carbide Cut-Off Wheel and cut "straight down" through the "center" of the adjuster and 13mm hex. Make sure you're on center so the cut-off wheel doesn't score your caliper. You can ease over to one side or the other to get a decent slice on the 13mm nut. Make sure you do not go through to the caliper surface or that adjuster bore. Then, when you're almost through, finish it off with a sharp cold chisel. Remove the pieces of the nut and push the adjuster through. I can replace both those parts for $20.00 if you go that route.

3. If the threads aren't too chewed up, try this method. Put a 13mm socket in a pair of vise grips and use a 4mm hex through the opening to "hold" the adjuster shaft. Use the hex to just hold and try to turn with the socket set-up. You may be able to spin the 13mm nut up and correct the threads as you go. If not, you'll strip the 4mm hex. Once that happens, go back to #2.