oil change, How To |
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oil change, How To |
cpfoster |
Jul 3 2010, 03:08 PM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 9 Joined: 11-May 10 From: Washington, DC Member No.: 11,718 Region Association: None |
This may be a simplistic question, but this is my first 914 a '73 2.0L. I just got it recently. My question has to do with the oil change, specifically the strainer which is to be removed and cleaned, which I did. The problem is when I replaced it it leaks oil. I know it's only supposed to be torqued to 8 ft lbs or so which I did, I think the problem has to do with the gasket. My oil change gasket kit came with two gaskets for the strainer. Am I supposed to use both? I just fitted one gasket on to the strainer when replacing it, was I supposed to double up, or push one of the gaskets up into the lip where it seals with the case? What's the proper procedure here?
Also, now I'm going to get more oil, I had used SAE 30W but I'd rather use a multi-grade, what is working for most here? Thanks! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/birthday3.gif) |
Lennies914 |
Jul 3 2010, 04:53 PM
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#2
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Slacker Group: Members Posts: 828 Joined: 9-January 10 From: NorCal Member No.: 11,216 Region Association: Northern California |
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I just did my oil change this morning and wasn't aware of the torque spec.. I guess I got lucky and diidn't break anything. As for the oil, I was going to go with the Royal Purple but my FLAPS only carried 15-40 and I wanted to use some 20-50 due to our extremely hot summers. I ended up purchasing Lucas racing synthetic 20-50. Does this still require the zinc additive? Hopefully this is not a hijack, but it is the same topic (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
realred914 |
Jul 4 2010, 01:15 AM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Retired Members Posts: 1,086 Joined: 1-April 10 From: california Member No.: 11,541 Region Association: None |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) I just did my oil change this morning and wasn't aware of the torque spec.. I guess I got lucky and diidn't break anything. As for the oil, I was going to go with the Royal Purple but my FLAPS only carried 15-40 and I wanted to use some 20-50 due to our extremely hot summers. I ended up purchasing Lucas racing synthetic 20-50. Does this still require the zinc additive? Hopefully this is not a hijack, but it is the same topic (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) look on the bottle, there probably is an API logo (circular star logo) the API (American Petroleum Institute) rate motor oils, that manufactures of automobiles then can specify, the current rating sold is "SM" if it is rated as an SM oil it for sure has TOO LITTLE ZDDP. nearly all oils commonly sold is rated SM now. (note this is the S rating system, in the old days I remember SC oils, as they advance the oil type, the letter after the S is advanced (ie SC, SD, SE etc.....) however just becuase does not have the API rating it does not mean it is high enough in zddp, I suggested two option in prior post, there are several more, Valvoline makes a Four stroke motorcycle oil that is high in ZDDP ( it is called V twin oil, supposindly designed for high temp air cooled engines)(at least it currenlty is high in zddp, but watch out, bikes are now getting catalysts, and catalysts are the driving force in the removal of Zinc, the oil may change at any time and gain the evil SM rating!) deisel engine oils have been long known to have high amounts of antiwear additives such as zddp, however new deisel oils now have reduced zddp levels, the deisel engine oil rating system is different (not S based) it uses the letter C and a number, I forget teh current number, but the current number is lower zinc that required for the 914 engine. so diesel is off the list too(unless it is some really old stock) Id always carry a spare bottle of STP red additve in the trunk , just in case you need an oil change or emergency top off, and cant get the special oil for some reason, at least you have a back up plan! |
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