1st Engine startup. 2.0 Six Top End Refresh, A few questions Options

[Ericv1]

So, tonight I fire up the 2.0L six since last September and it starts within the first five seconds. I adjust the idle to about 1500 rpms (As suggested in Waynes book) and let it run for 23 minutes. After 23 minutes, I adjust the idle down and can hear a NOTICEABLE knocking sound from the top engine compartment on the right hand side. Could this be a loose intake valve? The sound dissappears as I rev the engine. Or, at least I can't hear it as I rev it.
Second, my alternator light goes out when the engine is running but remains on when the ignition is turned off with the key out of the ignition.
Third, my oil pressure light never went out. I think I can fix this one pretty easily as I may have not wired it correctly. But, I was looking for opinions. In order for the light to work, does the oil temperature sensor need to be wired up?

If you can help me with one or all of these issues I would appreciate it. I'm especially concerned about the knocking. Thanks.

[avidfanjpl]

No way to time it other than the following.

This assumes you are running DJet only and have real points.

First, get the cold engine rotated to TDC mark (BIG PITA), then when the lobe has the points open fully, set them at .017, check it several times.

That should get your dwell to close to 50

Better if you can check it with a dwell meter.

Then reassemble the dizzy. There is a hash mark on the dizzy rim for cyl 1, and that should be pointing toward the drivers seat, roughly.

Start the car, and connect your light to cyl 1 wire. Disconnect the retard and advance hoses from the dizzy. This is a must.

Get a tach connected and make sure it does 4 cyl engines. Rev it to 3500 and you should see the timing mark march from TDC (a white mark or a O stamped at TDC in the port window) to 27BTDC, a red hash mark in the fan. At 3500, and 27BTDC, to the right of TDC, you are timed by loosening the dizzy bolt and twisting the dizzy SLOWLY to get the red mark nailed in the cutout for the timing marks AT 3500 RPM.

Do it again to be sure, then tighten the dizzy, but not too tight, just enough to not move.

You should then be able to set idle richness on the ECU about click 11 of 21, and set the overall cold/warm idle with the Throttle body Idle screw. This also assumes you gapped your plugs at .026.

Make the idle 950 rpm. No more no less. Make sure your #3 plug wire is NOWHERE near the MPS near the battery tray, or it will ruin acceleration from idle every time. Stuff the wire under the injector tubes. The voltage from the plug wire messed with the coil inside the MPS.

Good luck!

John