QUOTE(orange914 @ Aug 13 2010, 12:24 AM)
QUOTE(9146986 @ Aug 12 2010, 07:31 PM)
I don't mean to 2nd guess you, but I'd have never run the engine that long with the oil light on.
did you confirm oil pressure with a mechanical gauge? knock + o.p. light could = problem.
No, I pulled the intake valve covers today and cranked the engine and verified there was oil pressure. It was messy, but I didn't have a gauge handy. The oil pressure light is fixed. I installed a dual sending unit and hooked the green/red wire up to the wrong lead. Once I switched the lead it was fine. It now works as it should. The knocking is gone as well. I did a lot of research last night on Pelican and diagnosed it to either a
1. The timing is too advanced causing predetonation.
2. A loose rocker arm in the valve train.
3. A possible piston wrist pin cam out.
4. A small metal object accidentley made it's way into the combustion chamber without me knowing.
5. A dropped valve seat.
Since options 3-5 require a complete teardown I focused on 1 and 2. The valves were in spec and my timing was completely off. Once I adjusted my timing, the knock went away.
By the way, is there an easier way to time this thing? There's very little clearance to get the timing light down there to see what your doing.
I still have the alternator light that comes on when the ignition is turned off. When the car is running, it goes out. The multimeter says the battery is receiving about 13.3 volts. If I disconnect the D+ lead from the rear relay board, the light turns off. I have my B+ blue wire connected to the D+ lead on the relay board. Is this correct?
I'm glad I was able to work through some of these bigger concerns without it being a huge issue. Now, I can work on adjusting the carbs. Thanks for the help.