Dropping the transmission, Been a while Options

[avidfanjpl]

I really only want to drop the trans to do a complete overhaul. The leaks got to me today, and then I think I sheared something. No noise, just no forward motion, and that is OK, because I have a new clutch plate and need a new clutch cable as the existing one is a skinny one and all stretched out.

I know I have to drop the CV's and rebuild them, so I will start there when I get the tool bit tomorrow. I know also to drop the reverse switch, the ground, and I have a new strap, and the starter, clutch cable and all the bolts holding on the tranny, then the rear mounts, which I may replace, but is that about it?

It pisses me off to no end that I have to probably drop the SSHE's, which I just frigging put on. I am replacing the muffler, and wonder if I can leave the SSHE's in place?

Too risky?

It was a total PITA to get the SSHE's on and perfect. Just last weekend, but like I said, time to pull the transmission. The leaks will go away. Soon, I hope, then I have to get Dr. Evil's video, the tool, and McMark's gasketed speedo wonder.

Hayne's is just too vague, and yes, I know I need the video, then the parts figured out. I looked for a thread, and could not find one from A to Z.

Anyone know of one here? I am about to become a transmission dilettante.

Anything else before I drain the brand new gear oil?

Thanks!

[Cupomeat]

I recently did this action but did not need to alter the orientation of the engine to the body at all.

The top 2 bolts for the engine to transmission are difficult to put back in, but it saved me time avoiding unbolting the engine bar, especially as i was using it as a safety point for a safety jack stand.

To me, the key is to make sure the clutch plate is lined up properly or else you will have a hard time getting the transmission input shaft to mate with the clutch.

I hope this helps. The good thing is that everything is relatively in the open you can visualize all the work before you start and can make your own decisions.