CALLING ALL 2056 engine owner/builders, survey for past AND future 2056 builders Options

[orange914]

i am interested in the REAL world cost and issues incured by others who have built these motors. i recently finished one and so far am extreemly happy with how strong and smooth it runs. there where issues as with alot of things but after working thru them, all is well. my 2056 probably has a bit more done to it than most 2056 builds, that may account for the successful outcome BUT maybe not. from what i've seen this is a highly sucessful combination.

don't be shy and tell us what ALL was done and your detailed experiance with building/driving it. this could be a great help for past and present 2056 builds.

if there is interest i'll make another poll on presures and temp.'s

mike (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

EDIT MCMARK: Added "No Problems"

[Jake Raby]

Funny this popped back up.. I am assembling a 2056 tonight, its the 160K mile engine that I tore down in this article on my site. I built this in 2002 for my personal 912E
http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/index.p...&Itemid=112

I am going back together with it almost exactly the same way, except with a new set of RS+ heads because the 2 liter castings were toast (as they ALWAYS are). I am actually going down on camshaft from a 9530 to a 9550 to better match the desires I have for the engine.

I plan on posting the build up with all the used parts and a few new ones on my site.. The 160K mile KB pistons are even being reused! My goal is to only make the same power the engine made previously, around 130HP at the flywheel, I'd like to see 110 RWHP but at a lower RPM than previously, this is for my 30K+ mile per year daily driver that needs to average north of 35 MPG..

This post has been edited by Jake Raby: Aug 23 2010, 06:11 PM

[realred914]

Funny this popped back up.. I am assembling a 2056 tonight, its the 160K mile engine that I tore down in this article on my site. I built this in 2002 for my personal 912E
http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/index.p...&Itemid=112

I am going back together with it almost exactly the same way, except with a new set of RS+ heads because the 2 liter castings were toast (as they ALWAYS are). I am actually going down on camshaft from a 9530 to a 9550 to better match the desires I have for the engine.

I plan on posting the build up with all the used parts and a few new ones on my site.. The 160K mile KB pistons are even being reused! My goal is to only make the same power the engine made previously, around 130HP at the flywheel, I'd like to see 110 RWHP but at a lower RPM than previously, this is for my 30K+ mile per year daily driver that needs to average north of 35 MPG..

so I take it you really like the KB piston? Just wondering what advantages do you find over some of the others from a technical stand point? is the material or build qulaity, piston design (combustion chamber, pin hieght, etc...) that makes the KB your choice? I understand they are forged, which should be a good thing strength wise.

thanks for advice

[Jake Raby]

Funny this popped back up.. I am assembling a 2056 tonight, its the 160K mile engine that I tore down in this article on my site. I built this in 2002 for my personal 912E
http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/index.p...&Itemid=112

I am going back together with it almost exactly the same way, except with a new set of RS+ heads because the 2 liter castings were toast (as they ALWAYS are). I am actually going down on camshaft from a 9530 to a 9550 to better match the desires I have for the engine.

I plan on posting the build up with all the used parts and a few new ones on my site.. The 160K mile KB pistons are even being reused! My goal is to only make the same power the engine made previously, around 130HP at the flywheel, I'd like to see 110 RWHP but at a lower RPM than previously, this is for my 30K+ mile per year daily driver that needs to average north of 35 MPG..

so I take it you really like the KB piston? Just wondering what advantages do you find over some of the others from a technical stand point? is the material or build qulaity, piston design (combustion chamber, pin hieght, etc...) that makes the KB your choice? I understand they are forged, which should be a good thing strength wise.

thanks for advice

My pistons were in such good shape at 160K that I ended up reusing them for the new build. I simply blasted them with corn cob media and cleaned them up well. These were THE FIRST 96mm KB pistons that the company made, they were the prototypes! After all that time they measured out perfectly and had no scuffing or wear, you'll see pics in my "rebuild" thread over on my forums when I put it all together after the engine is on the dyno.

The KB pistons are light, super strong and their composition makes them perfect for a hotter running aircooled engine, due to that we can run much tighter skirt clearances than with a JE, Mahle or etc.

As noted above, the heads can really bite you in the butt. Mine had cracks in the exhaust ports. The options are to have them repaired ($400 to $800) and hope the repair is done right and will last, buy 1.8 liter heads from AA for $950 each or buy new from Jake Raby.

My heads were used up.. Len refused to do any work on them and I respected that. I just picked up my set of RS+ heads from him yesterday for the new engine. Head castings have a service life, people learn that when they TRY to reuse the castings again only to spend a ton of money and still have 30+ year old heads that are on their last leg. I can rebuild these new RS+ heads for the next 30 years as they are at the beginning of their service life.

The only new parts I used in this engine was:
camshaft (changed the profile)
piston rings
cylinder head assemblies
main, rod and cam bearings
rods (swapped out a set to save time)

It'll go another 150K+, the crank has 260K on it now and still mic'd out to 2.1682 which is better than stock sizing with only a .0002 ovality between all 4 journals!

Wait till you see the transformation I have given this baby with minimum expenditure. I have all new stuff 20 feet away, but I'd rather prove how robust the parts are for another 150K!

[Don M]

the crank has 260K on it now and still mic'd out to 2.1682 which is better than stock sizing with only a .0002 ovality between all 4 journals!

is this right? seems to be o/s +.003