My sound deadining projeck Options

[jsayre914]

Well,

I am waiting for my exhaust to come back from the ceramic coater, so why not start the next project (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I just recieved my shipment of second skin. I bought the damplifier, overkill and luxury liner. I am not sure if i will use it all but I want to see what works better where. I will post some pics once i get underway. I already have an aftermarket engine bay pad from evil bay. it works pretty good. this stuff i just got will go on the interior only. I also plan to reinstall the rear window with some new butyl tape when i begin. (just say NO to water)

i wonder how many projects i can start at one time (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

here is the link to the stuff i bought

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/

[charliew]

If that car has been up north it's whole life it looks great in the floors. You can't get the floors too clean so do the best you can or the rust will be back. I would do the rear window first so it doesn't get wet after the new interior coating has been done.

I've used a lot of por15 and have decided even if I had to brush it on I would use epoxy two part primer and a good industrual enamel on it after cleaning it with the por 15 cleaning and rust curing products, I think it's a better coating. The por 15 almost seems as hard as powdercoat but it sometimes doesn't stick near as well as epoxy primer and nothing sticks to it good after its cured except the por light blue intercoat primer ( called tiecoat primer) and that makes it even more expensive. The shelf life of por 15 is not good so don't buy more than you need if you do go that way.

[realred914]

If that car has been up north it's whole life it looks great in the floors. You can't get the floors too clean so do the best you can or the rust will be back. I would do the rear window first so it doesn't get wet after the new interior coating has been done.

I've used a lot of por15 and have decided even if I had to brush it on I would use epoxy two part primer and a good industrual enamel on it after cleaning it with the por 15 cleaning and rust curing products, I think it's a better coating. The por 15 almost seems as hard as powdercoat but it sometimes doesn't stick near as well as epoxy primer and nothing sticks to it good after its cured except the por light blue intercoat primer ( called tiecoat primer) and that makes it even more expensive. The shelf life of por 15 is not good so don't buy more than you need if you do go that way.

ditto that on por 15, it can flack off specially smooth wire welled surfaces. the epoxy is superior in adhesion, top coatability even clean up is easier. por 15 just makes a mess. they have a good sales gimick, just paint over rust, but who really belives that is the right way? that is what sell their product to, folks that believe painting over rust is the way to go (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)

get to know your local real autobody paint and supply store, look for Dupont or PPG brands, (and a few others) name brand real atuomotive finishing stuff.

your doing a nice complete job judging form teh photos,dont compromise thsi project with crappy hobby paint that only exists becuase they ahve been able to sell this paint over rust gimick

you will also want to scuff that shinny metal you brushed with some course sand paper to give the coating a better surface.

be very carefull with acid treatments some paint will NOT cure if there is an acid caot under them. some acid catings must be washed off, which may be difficult in side teh car (acidic rinse water may get into places you can clean out.

what ever you do do NOT buy any of Eastwoods paint products, they make the cheapest crap and sell it for high prices. here rust converter coating is a nightmare of rust, it actually rpomotes rust under the top coat, I have done tests, it is worst then bare metal exposed to salt water, no kindding, pure junk. one more reasont to shop at a real auto body shop supply store and also smart to look up Duponts or PPgs website call and talk to there tech guys they really know their stuff, real chemicals, real paints, real cars

[Bleyseng]

If that car has been up north it's whole life it looks great in the floors. You can't get the floors too clean so do the best you can or the rust will be back. I would do the rear window first so it doesn't get wet after the new interior coating has been done.

I've used a lot of por15 and have decided even if I had to brush it on I would use epoxy two part primer and a good industrual enamel on it after cleaning it with the por 15 cleaning and rust curing products, I think it's a better coating. The por 15 almost seems as hard as powdercoat but it sometimes doesn't stick near as well as epoxy primer and nothing sticks to it good after its cured except the por light blue intercoat primer ( called tiecoat primer) and that makes it even more expensive. The shelf life of por 15 is not good so don't buy more than you need if you do go that way.

ditto that on por 15, it can flack off specially smooth wire welled surfaces. the epoxy is superior in adhesion, top coatability even clean up is easier. por 15 just makes a mess. they have a good sales gimick, just paint over rust, but who really belives that is the right way? that is what sell their product to, folks that believe painting over rust is the way to go (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)

get to know your local real autobody paint and supply store, look for Dupont or PPG brands, (and a few others) name brand real atuomotive finishing stuff.

your doing a nice complete job judging form teh photos,dont compromise thsi project with crappy hobby paint that only exists becuase they ahve been able to sell this paint over rust gimick

you will also want to scuff that shinny metal you brushed with some course sand paper to give the coating a better surface.

be very carefull with acid treatments some paint will NOT cure if there is an acid caot under them. some acid catings must be washed off, which may be difficult in side teh car (acidic rinse water may get into places you can clean out.

what ever you do do NOT buy any of Eastwoods paint products, they make the cheapest crap and sell it for high prices. here rust converter coating is a nightmare of rust, it actually rpomotes rust under the top coat, I have done tests, it is worst then bare metal exposed to salt water, no kindding, pure junk. one more reasont to shop at a real auto body shop supply store and also smart to look up Duponts or PPgs website call and talk to there tech guys they really know their stuff, real chemicals, real paints, real cars

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I have been using epoxy primers and they work great and no moisture will go thru em...POR 15 has pealed off on me before..get the real stuff epoxy primer.