The small block thread, Zach rebuilds a 350 (maybe 383 one day soon) Options

[VaccaRabite]

This thread will document my teardown and rebuild of a Chevy 350 small block engine.

This may be old hat to many of you, but I have never done it before and figured some of you may be interested as well, especially if you are considering putting one of these into your 914.

The engine that I am starting with is a 4 bolt main block truck engine out of a 1985 Chevy K20 3/4 ton pickup. I am not yet sure what the engine will be when I am done with it. I want to build a 383 stroker engine. But, the parts for this engine are so nice that I may stick with stock displacement and just go with better heads and intake. The heads and intake have all the smog stuff on them, so they are not going to be used.

Enough with words. Time for pictures.

First, lay out your tools on the rear trunk of your old Porsche. Only the finest work jacket will do to keep the paint scratches to a minimum.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm6.static.flickr.com-1435-1292897321.1.jpg)
For tear down you need 4 wrench sizes (all inch sizes). 3/8, 7/16, 9/16, and 5/8th. You will want to have these sizes in deep sockets and wrenches. You will want to have at least one breaker bar to break torque on most of the 9/16 and 5/8 bolts. Also a rubber hammer, pry bar, and scraper will be needed.

The beast:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm6.static.flickr.com-1435-1292897321.2.jpg)
This is the engine that I am going to be tearing down. It was pulled out of the donor truck Dec 10th and mounted on the engine stand the next day. Don't even think of trying to do this without an engine stand. This 1000 pound stand only cost $50, and it is money well spent. Fair bet my 914 has a little bit of engine envy right now....

Valve covers first.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm6.static.flickr.com-1435-1292897322.3.jpg)
Valve covers need to come off first, as they impinge removing the intake. One off in the picture above. You need a 7/16 deep socket to take off the nuts that hold the valve covers on. Lots of sealant was used here.

Valve covers, carb and intake are off.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm6.static.flickr.com-1435-1292897323.4.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm6.static.flickr.com-1435-1292897324.5.jpg)
Pretty easy so far. Time to go for the heads. The rods going into the block are all the push rods. They come up from the cam and operate the valves. The orange ball of fire is my heater. 70K BTU of warmth to stave off the cold, even with the garage door open. I even had to take off my warm overalls, as I started sweating with the heater and the overalls both. The intake was attached with 9/16th bolts. There was considerable sealant used, and getting the intake off was difficult. I ended up using a pry bar to get it started, and hold it up enough to get my fingers in there to pull the rest off.

First head is off.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm6.static.flickr.com-1435-1292897325.6.jpg)
This is the point where I had to do some soul searching. It was pristine! The cylinder walls look like they were just done. There was no carbon ring at the top of the cylinders, which is common for an engine with miles on it. The PO of the donor truck said the engine had been rebuilt 4000 miles ago. But given the condition of the truck and the electrical system (the spark plugs were rusted and fell apart on removal) I had my doubts. Now, though... it took a fair deal of will power to not just button the engine back up again and put new heads and intakes on it. But, I am a stubborn man at times... I am going to rebuild this engine, darn it! This is how I learn. The heads bolts were 5/8s and were heavily torqued. I needed a breaker bar to get them started.

With the heads off I took off the pulley and damper. The damper was a PAIN to get off. Lots of prying with the pry bar all over to keep it from cocking. One of those things where I probably should have used a puller, but I did not have one the right size or the desire to go and get one.

to be continued....

[VaccaRabite]

The cam is still in the block. I have not yet figured out how to remove it. Pretty sure I need to pull the freeze plug at the back of the engine and slide out the cam. But aside from that and a few bits and bobs, the engine is now totally torn down, and I am ready to start cleaning the block.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm6.static.flickr.com-1435-1292897457.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm6.static.flickr.com-1435-1292897458.2.jpg)

So, what’s next?
Well, obviously, the cam needs to come out. However that works.
Then I am going to pull all the freeze plugs and start cleaning out the galleries. Oil and sludge build up in the galleries and that can hurt the engine over time. CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN.

Also, I am going to do some dressing on the block. Open up some oil drain holes, take off rough edges, and do other things to improve the qualities of the block. Then the block will go to my local machinist. I need to find out what size everything is, and let him run it through the hot tank. I am pretty sure the cylinders were cut to 30 over, and I do not think that they will need to be recut. I do want to see if the crank needs to be standard or over. That will affect bearings and what parts I get. I'll do the hone job when it gets back. Then clean it some more, and paint it.

So thats all I have for today. I'll update the thread as more gets done.
I have to say, it is very tempting to put this into the 914.... Especially if I build the 383.

Zach

[stewteral]

The cam is still in the block. I have not yet figured out how to remove it. Pretty sure I need to pull the freeze plug at the back of the engine and slide out the cam. But aside from that and a few bits and bobs, the engine is now totally torn down, and I am ready to start cleaning the block.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm6.static.flickr.com-1435-1292897457.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm6.static.flickr.com-1435-1292897458.2.jpg)

So, what’s next?
Well, obviously, the cam needs to come out. However that works.
Then I am going to pull all the freeze plugs and start cleaning out the galleries. Oil and sludge build up in the galleries and that can hurt the engine over time. CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN.

Also, I am going to do some dressing on the block. Open up some oil drain holes, take off rough edges, and do other things to improve the qualities of the block. Then the block will go to my local machinist. I need to find out what size everything is, and let him run it through the hot tank. I am pretty sure the cylinders were cut to 30 over, and I do not think that they will need to be recut. I do want to see if the crank needs to be standard or over. That will affect bearings and what parts I get. I'll do the hone job when it gets back. Then clean it some more, and paint it.

So thats all I have for today. I'll update the thread as more gets done.
I have to say, it is very tempting to put this into the 914.... Especially if I build the 383.

Zach

Hi Zach,

I hate to be the Buzz-Kill here, but I would like to suggest taking a look at your whole power & drive train as a unit.

From what I've tracked about conversion cars, if you plan to run the STOCK 901 trans, you have to look at about a 350 HP limit (and what ever torque the engine develops as this power level) or things will BREAK!! Next, take a look at the puny CV joints with only 4 bolts! Also, at this power level, you can keep your stock crank and rods.

When I looked at building my conversion, I wanted to go BIG so I built a 500 HP 383, but I also had to cough up $2300 for a 930 trans and lucked into used 911 SC/Turbo half shafts for $80 (they fit the 914 hub bearings) and finished off with 911 wheel flanges.

I've posted a lot of stuff on the Paddock forum on chassis, handling, engine cooling, etc. as it will take some work to get things to operating as an intregal package.

Unless you plan on chasing down a 930 4-spd, or better, a G-50 5-spd (the Pantera 5spd also can be made to work), my recommendation is to build a nice 350, not bother with a 383 and use a low-end cam as a member suggested.

Summit has small-port aluminum heads for something under $900, if that's in your budget. Small ports work great for low-end through mid-range operation along with the mild cam. Not only do aluminum heads look great, but you save 50 lbs off the top of the tall V8. Since the whole design of the chassis was based on a pancake motor, the heavy V8 really messes up the CG, causing much more roll than originally planned. The less tall weight the better.

I hope I haven't spoiled your day, but a mild engine will give you a great running, reliable daily driver that gets decent mileage. My 383 gets only 13 MPG!!!!

Best,
Terry

[messix]

The cam is still in the block. I have not yet figured out how to remove it. Pretty sure I need to pull the freeze plug at the back of the engine and slide out the cam. But aside from that and a few bits and bobs, the engine is now totally torn down, and I am ready to start cleaning the block.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm6.static.flickr.com-1435-1292897457.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm6.static.flickr.com-1435-1292897458.2.jpg)

So, what’s next?
Well, obviously, the cam needs to come out. However that works.
Then I am going to pull all the freeze plugs and start cleaning out the galleries. Oil and sludge build up in the galleries and that can hurt the engine over time. CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN.

Also, I am going to do some dressing on the block. Open up some oil drain holes, take off rough edges, and do other things to improve the qualities of the block. Then the block will go to my local machinist. I need to find out what size everything is, and let him run it through the hot tank. I am pretty sure the cylinders were cut to 30 over, and I do not think that they will need to be recut. I do want to see if the crank needs to be standard or over. That will affect bearings and what parts I get. I'll do the hone job when it gets back. Then clean it some more, and paint it.

So thats all I have for today. I'll update the thread as more gets done.
I have to say, it is very tempting to put this into the 914.... Especially if I build the 383.

Zach

Hi Zach,

I hate to be the Buzz-Kill here, but I would like to suggest taking a look at your whole power & drive train as a unit.

From what I've tracked about conversion cars, if you plan to run the STOCK 901 trans, you have to look at about a 350 HP limit (and what ever torque the engine develops as this power level) or things will BREAK!! Next, take a look at the puny CV joints with only 4 bolts! Also, at this power level, you can keep your stock crank and rods.

When I looked at building my conversion, I wanted to go BIG so I built a 500 HP 383, but I also had to cough up $2300 for a 930 trans and lucked into used 911 SC/Turbo half shafts for $80 (they fit the 914 hub bearings) and finished off with 911 wheel flanges.

I've posted a lot of stuff on the Paddock forum on chassis, handling, engine cooling, etc. as it will take some work to get things to operating as an intregal package.

Unless you plan on chasing down a 930 4-spd, or better, a G-50 5-spd (the Pantera 5spd also can be made to work), my recommendation is to build a nice 350, not bother with a 383 and use a low-end cam as a member suggested.

Summit has small-port aluminum heads for something under $900, if that's in your budget. Small ports work great for low-end through mid-range operation along with the mild cam. Not only do aluminum heads look great, but you save 50 lbs off the top of the tall V8. Since the whole design of the chassis was based on a pancake motor, the heavy V8 really messes up the CG, causing much more roll than originally planned. The less tall weight the better.

I hope I haven't spoiled your day, but a mild engine will give you a great running, reliable daily driver that gets decent mileage. My 383 gets only 13 MPG!!!!

Best,
Terry

ya kinda missed that he's not putting it into a 914!

the picture of the old army truck is where the mouse will live.

[SirAndy]

I have to say, it is very tempting to put this into the 914.... Especially if I build the 383.

if you plan to run the STOCK 901 trans, you have to look at about a 350 HP limit (and what ever torque the engine develops as this power level) or things will BREAK!!

ya kinda missed that he's not putting it into a 914!

Ya kinda missed that he did say he was tempted ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

But knowing Zach's Jedi like powers when it comes to resisting temptation, it's probably safe to say you are right .... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)