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19144jt |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 176 Joined: 19-September 05 From: Grass Valley, CA Member No.: 4,829 ![]() |
I have been restoring this car for a while (1975 1.8) so it sits from time to time without being started. I am ready to get it running good to start driving it and complete the restoration. Less than a year ago I could reach in from outside the car, turn the key and it would start right up. I just replaced the fuel pump with a new one because the old one quit. Now I have to keep the key turned for maybe 15 to 20 seconds or more before it will fire and then maybe another 10 seconds while it finally catches and starts. It seems to idle fine but if I rev it even slightly from idle the tach starts to bounce wildly and the Generator light flashes on and off steadily and continuously. After searching this site It sounded like I was dealing with a bad condenser so I popped the dist out and changed out the condenser with a spare I had. I also fileld the points to remove any pits etc. and gapped them correctly. Reinstalled the dizzy and no luck...still took a lot of cranking before it would start and as soon as I gave it a little gas above idle the light was back on and the tach bouncing. I am not sure if the long start time (showed up conspicuously after new fuel pump installation) and the light and tach aren't two independant problems. I want to test the cold start valve and switch but it has been too warm to get below the test temp. Any suggestions?
John |
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19144jt |
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#2
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 176 Joined: 19-September 05 From: Grass Valley, CA Member No.: 4,829 ![]() |
OK, I put the alternator and voltage regulator back in and the gen light was still flashing on and off. Spent most of yesterday working on this. I did finally find that when I removed the turn signal/emergency flasher relay the gen light stopped flashing and simply went to a dull glow and the tach stopped bouncing and that's where I left it. I did check the tach by removing the purple/black wire from the coil as suggested with no change. I went over every wire I could find that came even close to having anything to do with this and no luck. The alternator is charging the battery though at 13.5 to 14 volts when I checked. I couldn't find a master ground under the dash...can you tell me what to look for? I looked for a group of light brown wires and couldn't see anything. I did try unplugging the relay board connectors and plugging them back in but that didn't do it.
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detoxcowboy |
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#3
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,294 Joined: 30-January 08 Member No.: 8,642 Region Association: Africa ![]() |
OK, I put the alternator and voltage regulator back in and the gen light was still flashing on and off. Spent most of yesterday working on this. I did finally find that when I removed the turn signal/emergency flasher relay the gen light stopped flashing and simply went to a dull glow and the tach stopped bouncing and that's where I left it. I did check the tach by removing the purple/black wire from the coil as suggested with no change. I went over every wire I could find that came even close to having anything to do with this and no luck. The alternator is charging the battery though at 13.5 to 14 volts when I checked. I couldn't find a master ground under the dash...can you tell me what to look for? I looked for a group of light brown wires and couldn't see anything. I did try unplugging the relay board connectors and plugging them back in but that didn't do it. There is a black wire with green and white strip on it, that is the flasher for the ebrake, you do not need it but it is supposed to be with the ebrake wire and the parking lamp wire on the other side of the bulb.. .. when it is grounded is what starts the flashing.. also for your enjoyment.. Question: My alternator lamp keeps coming on. How do I know what the problem is? Answer: First some facts about the alternator. The stock alternator that came installed in the 914 is a 50 amp Bosch model that is cooled with a special rubber boot attached to an outlet from the cooling fan housing. Sometimes the charging system may be unreliable if the voltage regulator has failed. The best way to check the regulator is by checking the voltage output to the battery during engine operation. Also, you can check the regulator by replacing it with a known good one as well. The regulator, or governor as the 914 manual calls it is located on the 914 relay board in the engine compartment. If the regulator fails, it may overcharge the battery and cause battery acid to spill. Make sure that this is cleaned up immediately, as it will corrode the metal in the tray and the surrounding areas as well. Baking soda dissolved in water will help to neutralize the battery acid if it spilled. Before even thinking about replacing the alternator, be sure to check all the ground connections, especially the ground strap attached to the transmission. Also be sure to check the alternator belt for tightness, and replace it if it is cracked and worn. The correct replacement size is 9.5 x 965(mm). If you are having trouble with the alternator light, check this list to see if you can diagnose the problem: Alternator indicator lamp is on with key off. Alternator has failed, and diodes have shorted out. Replace alternator and in the meantime, disconnect battery to prevent complete draining of the battery. Alternator indicator lamp does not light when key is turned on. Alternator bulb has burned out. Regulator has failed DF wire is disconnected or broken from alternator Alternator has failed, and internal slip-rings are open I Indicator lamp remains on after engine is started and running above 2000 RPM Regulator has failed Battery lead to alternator has been disconnected Alternator is not firmly grounded Alternator internal slip-rings are dirty or worn Indicator lamp wattage is too low (not enough initial current) Alternator is bad Indicator lamp is dim after starting, and gets brighter as engine RPM increases. Battery lead to alternator loose or bad Ground connections are bad Battery is bad Alternator is bad due to open diode failure Indicator lamp is dim after startup, but eventually gets dimmer and goes out when engine RPM increase. Low charged battery Poor connections to battery Indicator lamp is dim after startup, and gets dimmer as RPM increases, but never goes out. Regulator has failed Alternator is failing |
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