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sfrenck |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 492 Joined: 28-February 10 From: Wilmington, DE Member No.: 11,411 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
Adjusting my clutch pedal today. Two pictures:
Clutch pedal out (not pushed): ![]() Clutch pedal pushed to stop on pedal board: ![]() Do these positions look right (besides my plumbing fitting used in place of a stack of washers)? Or should the clutch arm touch the transmission case when the pedal is pushed in? |
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Dr Evil |
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#2
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Send me your transmission! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 23,041 Joined: 21-November 03 From: Loveland, OH 45140 Member No.: 1,372 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
Information to be found in the link below to my 31 pages of transmission notes.
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sfrenck |
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#3
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 492 Joined: 28-February 10 From: Wilmington, DE Member No.: 11,411 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
Information to be found in the link below to my 31 pages of transmission notes. Dr: So, if my pedal has some free play and begins to disengage in the "green" per your appendix, and doesn't grind when shifting into reverse, then I'm OK with the 3/32" gap (which makes sure I'm not stretching the clutch cable because the pedal board stops the travel before the arm hits the casing)? What's your thoughts on what the 3/32" gap should be? |
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