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> Engman Kit Install, Couple questions...
TargaToy
post Feb 12 2011, 01:14 PM
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For the driver's side, is the general practice to remove the P-brake handle resting post or relieve the Engman panel and leave the post in place?

Also, I've read a couple opinions about how much "spread" to introduce to the door way to allow for shrinkage after the tub cools down--and to compensate for sag in the body once it's back on its wheels.

What's my best strategy?



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TargaToy
post Feb 12 2011, 08:28 PM
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Thanks, guys.

What I have is braces I made from 1" square tubing with integral turnbuckles. They fasten at the upper shoulder belt mount and are tacked on top of the longs as far forward as i could get them. The reason for this was so I could adjust them with the doors in place. I kept the roof clipped in place and then removed the door so I could cut out the inner longs, jack post area, and wheelhouse. All that grunt work is done now with new steel in place and I finally made the plunge on getting the Engman kit. Trouble is, my braces are on top of the longs--interfering with where the stiffening kit will go.

My plan (which I started today) is to grind the welds and pull out one brace at a time. I will then clamp the Engman side piece in place and weld it just in the area which would be under the foot of my chassis brace so I could re-tack the brace. Then, put the door back on to check gaps again, adjust the brace as necessary, remove door, and finish welding in the kit.

I just wasn't sure if it was as easy as that or if I needed to actually put expansion tension on my braces as I have read in the past.

And then the P-brake post also raised the question. I had never seen anyone else addressing it being in the way of fitment. I will say I was blown away by the design, quality, and finish of the kit's parts. Nice stuff to say the least.

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