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> 930 Trans, Could this be the one I want...
wallys914
post Jul 2 2011, 01:48 PM
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I have been looking to purchase a 930 for my v8 conversion for a while, I know it will be pricey but it will come with the strength and longevity that will be needed for the power I want to put down.

These are the specs, anyone want to chime in? This should be the right type, right? What would be a reasonable price considering I will have to tear it down flip the R&P and other modifications? ( besides FREE)

Per owner:

The transaxle was purchased from a Porsche Transmission shop in LA, They completely went through it and it has not been used since.

930 (LATE-LONG BELL) TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATION
• Type: 930Original equipment for: Porsche 3.3L 930, 911 Turbo 78-88
• Description: 4 speed manual transaxle, std H pattern
• Limited Slip Differential
• Weight (approx): 117lbs
• Speedometer: electric/hall sensor
• 1st gear: 2.25
• 2nd gear: 1.304
• 3rd gear: 0.893
• 4th gear: 0.625
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stewteral
post Jul 2 2011, 07:11 PM
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[quote name='wallys914' date='Jul 2 2011, 12:48 PM' post='1503463']
I have been looking to purchase a 930 for my v8 conversion for a while, I know it will be pricey but it will come with the strength and longevity that will be needed for the power I want to put down.

These are the specs, anyone want to chime in? This should be the right type, right? What would be a reasonable price considering I will have to tear it down flip the R&P and other modifications? ( besides FREE)

Per owner:

The transaxle was purchased from a Porsche Transmission shop in LA, They completely went through it and it has not been used since.

930 (LATE-LONG BELL) TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATION
• Type: 930Original equipment for: Porsche 3.3L 930, 911 Turbo 78-88
• Description: 4 speed manual transaxle, std H pattern
• Limited Slip Differential
• Weight (approx): 117lbs
• Speedometer: electric/hall sensor
• 1st gear: 2.25
• 2nd gear: 1.304
• 3rd gear: 0.893
• 4th gear: 0.625

Hey wallys914,

I hope I can clear some of he confusion on the 930 trans. I'm running a '78 930 in my 914V8 for some 8 years, on-track! The trans is BULLET PROOF! When I took it apart I was amazed to see a 9.5" Ring gear and gears that were HUGE...I though I was looking at a Muncie 4-spd!

What I learned (the hard way) is that EARLY 930's have enough room to flip the ring gear, given that the side of the case is CUT out and then recreated by lots of TIG welding of Aluminum. My concern here is that all this work will weaken the strenght of the cast case!

For my '78,it could NOT to the ring-gear flip, so I flipped the whole trans over, re-layed out 3 bolt holes (thus maintaining the alignment with the crank of the Chevy with 1 bolt. To operate the clutch, if you go BIG on power (i'm running a 383 @ ~~ 500HP) then look the the SLICK Wilwood PULLING slave cylinder and Wilwood clutch pedal & master cylinder assy. With a heavy clutch for BIG power, you MUST go Hydraulic as cable will just bend all the mounting brackets (been there & DONE that).

As I said, I've run the car for 8+ years with NO other changes to the box, so I don't know what the "plumbing extra tubes is about." I started out with an exteranal cooler with pump, but found that oil temps on reached 150 degrees F.
When I removed all the unneeded hardware, the trans oil only went up 25 degrees! NO Worries!

The final issue is the PATHETIC GEAR RATIOS of the standard 930! I've run the Big Track at Willow Springs, CA and when coming off T-9, heading uphill on the long front straight, when I shifted to 4th, I thought I'd dropped an anchor! Currently I'm running Streets of Willow Springs which is lower top speed and very technical. On ' Streets, I hit 105 MPH at the end to the front straight in 3rd @ 5000 RPM and then use ONLY 2nd & 3rd for the rest of the track!....So for 'Streets, the whole track is 2nd & 3rd and gearing is fine.

I have researched replacement gear ratios, but since they cost about $1000 per set, I PASSED! A GREAT solution would the a G-50 Porsche trans, HOWEVER, at about 6" LONGER than the 930, it would actually stick out 4-5" BEHIND the rear bumper!! this could only be acceptable with a "Crash Structure" built out from the rear of the car for protection.

So, I don't know if I've helped, but in giving you the TRUTH on the issue, will allow you to make a better decision.

Ask me questions if you would like,

Terry
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