Paul's phoenix red restoration Thread, GT clone |
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Paul's phoenix red restoration Thread, GT clone |
914itis |
Jun 22 2011, 09:28 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,892 Joined: 9-October 10 From: New York City Member No.: 12,256 Region Association: North East States |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)I will start a resto thread soon. The flare are staying, What are you guys using as rims without doing a 5 lug conversion? meaning i need some nice 4 lugs rims that will stand out. |
Andyrew |
Jul 11 2011, 06:06 PM
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#2
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Spooling.... Please wait Group: Members Posts: 13,376 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California |
Just to clarify, I DO recommend sealing, but as the final layer just prior to shooting paint.
If you shoot the primer sealer wet on wet (check the primer to ensure that it can be sprayed wet on wet), which is shooting the primer sealer on the car with your primer gun then waiting the flash time (check the primer tech) then spraying your color right over the primer however your going to spray. I Suggest testing this on the engine lid first to ensure you dont have any chemical reaction between the primer and paint, unless you get it all from one paint store and the guy behind the counter says its ok. ALso be sure to reduce the primer sealer ~ 10-15% If you do the above then you can sand down to say 220 grit (Thats what I did on my car). If not, 300-400 would be fine. This is assuming a solid colors. Metalics or pearls or anything like that would be 600 grit. |
914itis |
Jul 11 2011, 09:23 PM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,892 Joined: 9-October 10 From: New York City Member No.: 12,256 Region Association: North East States |
Just to clarify, I DO recommend sealing, but as the final layer just prior to shooting paint. If you shoot the primer sealer wet on wet (check the primer to ensure that it can be sprayed wet on wet), which is shooting the primer sealer on the car with your primer gun then waiting the flash time (check the primer tech) then spraying your color right over the primer however your going to spray. I Suggest testing this on the engine lid first to ensure you dont have any chemical reaction between the primer and paint, unless you get it all from one paint store and the guy behind the counter says its ok. ALso be sure to reduce the primer sealer ~ 10-15% If you do the above then you can sand down to say 220 grit (Thats what I did on my car). If not, 300-400 would be fine. This is assuming a solid colors. Metalics or pearls or anything like that would be 600 grit. Call me dumb, but I want to make sure i do this right. 1st lets start with wet on wet,does that mean that you are sprayng the sealer over the primer without waiting for it to get dry? from what I understand, this is what I will do step by step and correct me if i am wrong. keep in ,ind that I have no intention to apply the sealer the same day as primer. it will be at least a 24 Hr waiting period. 1- I will apply one more coat of the same primer over the whole car to cover the patching areas. 2- I will wait and make sure to check with the supplier that he sells me a sealer that is compatible with the primer to prevent chemical reactions. 3 I will spray the sealer after 24 hr at least 4 I will dry sand the sealer with the appropriate sand paper grit. 5- ready to paint with at least 2 coats of paint 6 - wet sand paint in 24 hours 7 aply clear coat after wet sand and I am done. |
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