My motor is headed back to Series9, Its going to kick its smoking habit |
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My motor is headed back to Series9, Its going to kick its smoking habit |
MoveQik |
Jun 23 2011, 05:07 PM
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What size wheels can I fit? Group: Members Posts: 4,645 Joined: 5-April 05 From: Scottsdale, AZ Member No.: 3,881 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I have this on Narp but I know most of you don't check in there too often. I thought I would put it here as well so all can see what Joe is up to.
Buying a used motor is always a roll of the dice. Mine has ran strong since Joe put it in but the smoking issue(valve guides seem to be the most common diagnosis) has become worse over time and the oil leaks are no longer small. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) So we struck a deal that has me pulling the motor and sending it to Joe to rebuild. Then he is coming out to help me put it back in(read as, he is letting me slow him down). There are added costs in doing this obviously but Joe made it more than fair and it worked out to be cheaper than having any of our local shops do the work and hand me back a freshened up motor. Plus, I get some more much needed hands on experience. I got the motor out yesterday. I will be pulling off parts that I want to pretty up while Joe has the motor. I am also going to take this time to clean up and respray the engine bay. The before photo, fresh out of the car: Attached thumbnail(s) |
J P Stein |
Jul 17 2011, 07:53 AM
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Irrelevant old fart Group: Members Posts: 8,797 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Vancouver, WA Member No.: 45 Region Association: None |
I no longer have my books but as I recall the torque is 13.6 ft/lbs. Many folks take it higher than that.....15-20 is bandied about supposedly to stop leaks & creep.
The proper torque sequence is to hold the larger nut while bringing up torque on the 5mm(?) end. As the torque rises the held end should stop turning (the shaft is expanding) before max torque is reached. If the held end does not stop turning, the shaft is no good and needs to be replaced. I make sure to have a few *new* spares standing by (they're fairly cheep) and have used more than one. Never abrade the charp edges on the end chamfers. They are ment to dig into the aluminum of the cam towers....but not to the point of permanently deforming the bores, IMO. The above is right out of B. Anderson's book and I've never had a leaky or creeping rocker shaft using this method/torque. The RSR seals are hella expensive from Pelican, however, if you go to that engine rebuild forum, guys find them much cheeper. Do a search. Normally I like to trade there (22 bucks for a rocker shaft) but 4.5 bucks each for an effin' O ring is just a bit much....24 needed. They come cast together in a "tree" of 12, IIRC. Lot of BS for sumthin' that should be simple, eh? BTW, Jeff brought up the torque wrench first. He knows his 911 motor stuff as well as anyone on this forum....prolly better than me. He's just quieter. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
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