Front end changeover in progress..., 8/8- Alignment woes Options

[jk76.914]

I'm finally getting rid of the 4-to-5 lug adapters and doing a real Porsche 5 lug front suspension. Contrary to normal practice, which is normal for me, I guess, I'm installing real 914/6 struts with new Bilstein inserts. I bought the parts about 5 years ago on eBay, and the kit was all-inclusive, with freshly painted struts and new ball joints, bearings, rotors, pads, and brake hardware, and rebuilt M calipers. My excuse is I didn't know any better at the time, or I'd have looked for a later 911 set with the later bearing type, but alas, I own it now and everything is in real nice shape.

I think I'm good to go on parts and tools, but I'm trying to find out the torque requirement for the lock bolt for the ball joint. It's an M10 x 30mm x 1.5mm pitch, going into steel threads in the strut; presumably the lower part of the strut, below the tube, is forged.

Looks like an M10 grade 12.9 bolt is good for 50 ft-lbs, but I don't want to chance stripping out the threads. Nor do I want the BJ to pop because it's too loose. Does anyone know the torque spec? Thanks! Picture below-

PS- any tips for installing this type of strut? Thanks!

[jk76.914]

ArtechnikA- Thanks for the comments, that may be it or part of it...

I thought of another clue. When my wife pushed on the pedal, there wasn't much flow. On some pushes, there may have been none, or at least so little as to be undetectable. There're weren't bubbles on these pushes either. The most effective combination was 5-7 psi at the MS while she pressed the pedal....

Could the front pistion in the MS be stuck forward?

[ArtechnikA]

The most effective combination was 5-7 psi at the MS while she pressed the pedal....
Could the front pistion in the MS be stuck forward?

I can't say it's impossible, but there is a nice spring in the MC to return the pistons.
What's the history on this MC ?

You should also note that the first thing that happens when the MC pistons move forward is that they shut off any connection to the reservoir - otherwise, pedal action would just pump fluid back up into the reservoir rather than the brake circuits. So nothing you're doing by pressurising the reservoir should have any effect.

If it's an excess-travel thing you should be able to pump the pedal (couple of quick shots) and get pressure. If that doesn't help, you probably still have air in the lines. Let them sit, preferably overnight, while tapping on them with a small brass or plastic hammer, to help dislodge and coalesce bubbles.

It's also possible that you managed to get air in the rear brake circuit - you bled the back too, yes ?

I presume you've checked plunger rod free play. There must be -some- -- I think the book number is about 1mm. If there is none, or preload, you're interfering with that connection to the reservoir.

If none of that helps, it may be time to pull the calipers back off the car and bench-bleed them... PITA but some calipers need it more than others. I never had to do it to 'M's but it has the advantage of removing unknowns.