Front end changeover in progress..., 8/8- Alignment woes |
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Front end changeover in progress..., 8/8- Alignment woes |
jk76.914 |
Sep 9 2010, 07:45 PM
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 809 Joined: 12-April 05 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 3,925 Region Association: North East States |
I'm finally getting rid of the 4-to-5 lug adapters and doing a real Porsche 5 lug front suspension. Contrary to normal practice, which is normal for me, I guess, I'm installing real 914/6 struts with new Bilstein inserts. I bought the parts about 5 years ago on eBay, and the kit was all-inclusive, with freshly painted struts and new ball joints, bearings, rotors, pads, and brake hardware, and rebuilt M calipers. My excuse is I didn't know any better at the time, or I'd have looked for a later 911 set with the later bearing type, but alas, I own it now and everything is in real nice shape.
I think I'm good to go on parts and tools, but I'm trying to find out the torque requirement for the lock bolt for the ball joint. It's an M10 x 30mm x 1.5mm pitch, going into steel threads in the strut; presumably the lower part of the strut, below the tube, is forged. Looks like an M10 grade 12.9 bolt is good for 50 ft-lbs, but I don't want to chance stripping out the threads. Nor do I want the BJ to pop because it's too loose. Does anyone know the torque spec? Thanks! Picture below- PS- any tips for installing this type of strut? Thanks! |
jk76.914 |
Jul 22 2011, 08:27 PM
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 809 Joined: 12-April 05 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 3,925 Region Association: North East States |
OK, I got it. As Eric indicated, the new rubber dust boots weren't slipping along the fresh (slightly granular) surface of the piston. It isn't supposed to, except to adjust for wear. It's intended to act as a spring to pull the piston back in slightly to get it away from the rotor when you release the brakes. As the pads wear, the piston travel will increase, until there is finally some slip along the piston to reset everything. On mine, because there was no slip (no adjustment), the seals pulled the pistons too far back into the cylinder. There was enough volume of displacement between the larger diameter of the M caliper and the too long travel of the pistons that the entire volume of the master cylinder was required to just push the pistons out near the rotor. So the pedal went all the way to the floor before the pads were tight between rotor and piston.
So first, I made myself a homemade set of pads. Real organics- I wanted them to be thinner than the new pads, but thicker than the backing plate. My goal was to get the pistons out enough to get that first slip of the rubber dust seal along the piston- I installed them into one caliper... And pumped the brake. The brake went from "nothing" to "not bad" in about five pumps! I removed the plywood brake pads, pried the pistons back in, reassembled the real pads and hardware, topped off the reservoir, and then repeated on the other side! As I pumped the brakes with the "organics" in, one nice thing is that I could hear the pistons coming out of the cylinders- actually the plywood was creaking as it was being crushed! Also, when I was all done, real pads installed, I could hear the equalizer in back of me thump every time I pumped. A good sign. Feeling good about the brakes now. Still need to bleed the rears, but I'll do that after my first drive. Now on to the toe-in. Thanks, everyone, for the suggestions! |
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